Vegan in Nara: Vegan Friendly Ramen by Playpen Friends

A bowl of ramen with a brown broth topped with seaweed, tofu, and lots of different vegetables

One of our favourite spots in Japan last summer was Vegan Ramen by Playpen Friends, where we had ramen with tomato broth, which we hadn’t seen anywhere else before (or since). You can read more about that here. We didn’t have chance to go back to the Osaka branch, but we were pleased to see that the same people run a vegan-friendly (but not fully vegan) branch in Nara called Vegan Friendly Ramen by Playpen Friends, so we decided to stop there on our day trip. There are quite a few vegan ramen options, though unfortunately none with the beloved tomato broth.

A bowl of ramen with a brown broth topped with seaweed, tofu, and lots of different vegetables

I got the syoyu tonkotsu, which had a really flavoursome and creamy broth that I loved. There were lots of toppings, most of which worked – I could live without the broccoli, but I was delighted that they chopped the pak choi into manageable chunks.

A bowl of ramen with a creamy broth topped with seaweed, tofu, and lots of different vegetables

Dr HH and Mother HH both chose the regular tonkotsu and also enjoyed the broth. Dr HH particularly loved the tofu and the nori, which packed more flavour than we’re used to from seaweed.

A deer poking out between the scenery in Nara

We’ve been to Nara several times now, but still think it’s worth a visit for a pleasant and convenient day trip from Kyoto. The vegan options have really increased and improved since our first visit in 2019. It was Mother HH’s first time at Nara, and she was very impressed. We never feed the deer there – they look like they are being well fed by other tourists, and we find the dynamic between entitled tourists and hungry deer a bit unpleasant. I think it’s still an enjoyable day out for vegans, but there are always some people harrassing the deer.

A temple with a long row of lanterns

The temples are definitely worth a visit though. Our favourite is always Kasuga Taisha, which has an incredible array of lanterns on display, each one with a different pattern. Really beautiful stuff!

This post wraps up another successful trip to Japan, full of beautiful sights and sensational meals. I hope it won’t be too long until my next trip!

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Vegan in Kyoto: Uno Ramen – Sanjo

A strawberry cake featuring three very thin layers of sponge and lots of cream

Last summer we visited the main branch of Gion Soy Milk Ramen Uno Yokiko in Kyoto and enjoyed the soy milk ramens on offer there (read more here). Since then, they’ve opened up a second branch, Uno Ramen – Sanjo, which happened to be close to a museum we visited in Kyoto, so we decided to stop there for lunch before an afternoon of temple sightseeing. The menu is basically the same, and it’s also all vegan, so it’s a convenient spot for a good meal.

A big bowl of ramen with a creamy broth, lots of vegetables, some tofu, soy meat and a couple of gyoza

Dr HH and I got the dandan soy milk ramen and enjoyed it. The broth is creamy and well seasoned. The chilli oil also helps bring a bit more flavour to the broth. There’s a variety of toppings (too many for me) and some are definitely superior to others. The tofu triangle is good, the soy mince adds a nice bit of flavour, and the gyoza are a nice treat. Some of the vegetables are a bit less exciting.

A big plate of curry sauce with a mound of rice, some meatballs, and a croquette on top

Mother HH was ready for a break from ramen and got a curry rice. This had a couple of soy meat balls and an okara croquette. She enjoyed the croquette and the sweet, spicy curry sauce, that Japanese classic, and found it a hearty and filling portion.

Dr HH and I also ordered a couple of the okara croquettes as a side dish. The okara provided a nice creamy filling with some bite to it, all three of us enjoyed this.

A strawberry cake featuring three very thin layers of sponge and lots of cream

While we were all satisfied with the mains, the desserts were less successful at our table. I had the strawberry cake, and found the sponge very different from European sponge, and a bit inferior. The sponge layers were very thin too, so it was almost entirely cream – though the cream and strawberries were the best and most flavoursome part, so that was probably for the best.

A chocolate cake featuring three very thin layers of sponge and lots of cream

Dr HH got the chocolate cake and had a similar critique – well-flavoured, but an unpleasant texture from the sponge. Nevertheless, we left feeling full and satisfied.

The inside of the restaurant, a series of very low tables with floor level seating

This restaurant has mostly Japanese-style seating. You have to take your shoes off at the door (there are little lockers). There are a few seats at the bar, a few tables where you have to sit right on the floor, and a few low tables where there is space for your feet to drop down below regular floor level. This type is quite comfortable once you’re in, but a bit tricky getting in and out, so it’s something to bear in mind. It’s also worth noting that there is no English sign outside the restaurant, so both our group and the one that arrived after us had to check with the staff to make sure we were in the right place and that it was indeed an all-vegan restaurant.

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Vegan in Kyoto: Musubi Sweets Factory

A chocolate cake with a fairly thin layer of sponge and a thick layer of chocolate cream.

Arashiyama is one of our favourite areas of Kyoto because it is just full of beautiful temples to visit. On our visit this April, we found ourselves with a bit of time to kill in Arashiyama while waiting for a bus, and were excited to see an all-vegan dessert spot listed on Happy Cow. It’s just across the bridge from the main drag, which meant it was less crowded than other spots, which was good news for us.

Two buttery biscuits with a pale ice cream sandwiched between them, with red berries visible in the ice cream

Musubi Sweets Factory had quite a bit of choice in the dessert counter – several different cakes and tarts on display, as well as butter sands promoted. Mother HH chose the strawberry milk butter sand/cookie sandwich, which had a strawberry ice cream sandwiched between two buttery biscuits. She loved it, and was especially pleased with the amount of fruit in the ice cream. This is another one of those classic Japanese dishes, so I’m glad she got to try it.

A slice of pale lemon cheesecake

Dr HH tried the lemon yoghurt cheesecake. It was really rich, but also zingy and fresh from the lemon. He loved it, except that he wished the base had been baked instead of raw. (The classic vegan cheesecake problem, in my experience.)

A chocolate cake with a fairly thin layer of sponge and a thick layer of chocolate cream.

I had the chocolate tofu cake, and it was incredible! The sponge base was light, and the tofu layer was extremely rich and delicious. It was really well balanced and delightful.

While the dessert options were quite extensive and all tempting, it was a different story with the drinks menu. There were a couple of teas and some coffee, but no milky drinks like any kind of latte, or fun soft drinks. More drinks options would really elevate it, in my opinion.

Service was fast and friendly. We ordered at the counter and paid upfront, then the staff brought everything over when it was ready. It was quite a spacious place with big windows, and was much quieter and more relaxed than the places we walked by on the other side of the bridge which were absolutely bustling. Definitely recommended if you’re in this area with time to kill or a sweet tooth to satisfy!

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Vegan in Kyoto: Mercy Vegan Factory – Kyoto Station

Egg sandwiches on white bread cut into triangles

By happy coincidence, I booked us a hotel in Kyoto that was just a three minute walk from an all-vegan restaurant which opened for both breakfast and dinner. What a discovery! Not many vegan spots open early in Japan (or anywhere I’ve been), so this was a real treat. We’d been to the original branch of Mercy Vegan Factory in Osaka last year (reviewed here), so we went in with a good idea of what to expect.

A large bowl of vegetable curry and rice

We visited for dinner on our first evening in Kyoto when we just wanted an easy meal near the hotel. All three of us ordered Shijou curries and enjoyed them. The curry sauce was well seasoned and it had a good amount of vegetables and hearty portion of rice.

A large bowl of vegetable curry and rice with a couple of pieces of fried vegan meat on the side

Dr HH and I also asked for a couple of pieces of fried kurumafau as an addition to the curry. These are good crispy bits of mock meat that are well seasoned and make a nice extra for the curry. When we ate at the Osaka branch last year, you could easily order the curry with kurumafau. At the Kyoto branch it’s available as an option on the takeaway menu, but not on the eat-in menu, so we were a bit unsure if we should try to get it or not. Ultimately, we wanted a bit of protein and something a bit more substantial, so I’m glad we asked, and I wish this was a regular feature on the menu.

A melon pan

We also got some melon pan for dessert, which was on our Japan wishlist for the trip. The inner bread is chocolate and the biscuit layer has chocolate chips, so it had a good flavour. While they were tasty, we found the inner bun a bit chewy. It seems like the baked goods are microwaved before being served and that leads to the less than perfect texture, which is a shame, but is the nature of the kitchen set up they have here.

A cinnamon roll

We took some more melon pan and cinnamon snails for a takeaway breakfast the next day. Everything kept well and tasted good. The cinnamon snails were probably a slightly better, less chewy option, but I love the novelty of a melon pan.

Egg sandwiches on white bread cut into triangles

We went back for breakfast a couple of times as it was so close to our hotel. We got more baked goods, along with egg sandwiches – I was a bit wary, but they were delicious. It’s been a long time since I ate eggs, but it felt like a convincing substitute. There could have been a little more seasoning to make everything a little better, but it was really enjoyable. I never liked egg sandwiches before I was vegan, but this was a total gamechanger, and inspired me to start making them at home too.

Overall, everything was tasty without being properly mindblowing, and service was fast and friendly. I definitely recommend this if you’re in the area in Kyoto. On that note though, the name is a little bit misleading. I assumed it would be in the restaurant area of the train station based on the name, but it was at least a 10 minute walk from the station. Still easy to get to, but worth bearing in mind if you’ve got a lot of luggage with you on arrival or departure!

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Vegan in Kyoto: Vegan Ramen Uzu Kyoto

A digital art installation on the main wall of the restaurant

We visited this restaurant for the first time in July 2024 and were really excited to return on our 2025 trip to Kyoto. I was disappointed to see online that the menu has changed quite a bit – now it’s just a set meal with no choice of starters (instead it’s two set appetisers), no choice of ice cream flavour for dessert, and just two ramens to choose between. Also, when you reserve your table, you have to specify which ramen each member of the party would like. It’s not super convenient to decide that a month in advance, but ultimately we were all happy with our choices.

The art, atmosphere, and service all remain unchanged, so it was still a really great experience (though personally I could live without the essential oil/meditation while you wait in the entrance hall to be seated). And the quality of the food was also unchanged, much to my delight.

A glass of kombucha in front of the digital art work

A drink is served first, you can choose with or without alcohol. We all got the non-alcoholic version, which was a kombucha. It was pleasant enough, but I’m not a huge fan of kombucha (or fizzy vinegar, as Dr HH calls it). After that, we could choose a drink to accompany the meal. It’s quite a small selection. In our party, one person got a sake, one a kombucha, and one a tea. We all enjoyed our drinks.

A small crackers with a pickled vegetable and a rectangle of vegan cheese on top

The first appetiser was a kind of soft cheese on a cracker. It was small but mighty! The cracker was really crisp and had a perfect crunch. The cheese was delicious, you could really taste the miso. It was such a good appetiser.

The second appetiser was sushi that we assembled ourselves (it was not difficult to do so). It was sensational, really zingy, fresh, and flavoursome. Again, it looked quite unassuming but was really packed with savoury flavours.

A big bowl of ramen topped with mushrooms, green leafy vegetables, and a large piece of tomato. A big portion of noodles is visible under the broth

Mother HH got the soy sauce ramen. She was worried it would be too salty and soy-heavy, but it was really well balanced and she loved it!

A big bowl or ramen with a yellow coloured broth. It's topped with mushrooms, okra, and a large piece of grilled tomato.

Dr HH and I both got the spicy miso ramen, which was a bit of a gamble for me as I like my food spiced, but not scorching hot. Sure enough, for me it was a touch spicier than my usual preference, but for Dr HH it was quite mild. It was a really rich and flavoursome broth, and we were thrilled that the noodles were quite flat. This dish looked a lot better in person than it did in the photo online! Both versions of the ramen were topped with a flavoursome grilled tomato and some juicy maitake mushrooms. Ours also had some onions and okra as well. It was really filling, so two light appetisers were a good match,

A bowl ot ice cream topped with a dusty beige powder, and sitting in a beige syrup

And for dessert, we were served kinako (roasted soy bean) ice cream. The ice cream was not very sweet, so it went nicely with the extremely sweet sauce. The kinako flour on top was very moreish. The overall taste was almost like black treacle to me. It was not my favourite ice cream ever, but it was fun to try.

We really enjoyed the overall experience and thought the food was amongst the most well-seasoned we’ve had in Japan. Even though we would have liked more choice like in the past, we weren’t really complaining about what we got, so I think they are getting it right.

It’s a small space, with just one big table in a dark room (big and dark enough that you do not feel like you’re dining closely with the other customers), and it’s quite popular, so reservations are definitely recommended. It’s quite different from the other dining experiences we had in Kyoto, so I highly recommend it.

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Vegan in Kyoto: Vegan Izakaya Nijiya

A tray with five small plates. One is a large piece of aubergine, one has lots of small pieces of greens, one has two slices of sweet potato, one has some pickled radish and tofu, and one has a big piece of fried tofu.

One of the few complaints I have about Japan is that not many restaurants take reservations (or at least not many vegan ones). I accept that this is probably based on bad experiences for the restaurant owners, but as a very responsible appointment keeper/canceller, it is a frustrating policy for me. That problem is exacerbated when you visit a teeny tiny restaurant like Vegan Izakaya Nijiya that only seats seven.

We knew in advance that there were only seven seats, so we plotted to arrive early to ensure we got seated right away at opening time, 5.30pm. We arrived at 5.05pm and were the first in the queue. By 5.20pm, there were more than seven people in the queue, meaning that some of those people would be waiting quite some time to get in. The restaurant opened promptly at 5.30pm. The maximum dining time is 1 hour, and that was about how long each dining group took, so for anyone in the queue it is a long old wait.

All three of us ordered the set menu, called the nijiya course – it’s also possible to get the large nijiya course or to pick and choose what you want from the menu, but we were happy to try a bit of everything. Each round of food arrived quite quickly, but we didn’t feel rushed.

A tray containing several dishes. There is a large serving of silken tofu topped with spring onions, with a brown dressing on the side. There's also a dish with a tiny helping of wasabi. Another dish contains pieces of yuba, served alongside a little cup with brown dressing

To start, we were served yuzu tofu and yuba. The yuzu tofu was the star of the show here, the sauce was so zingy and refreshing. Mother HH is not a tofu fan and even she enjoyed this one (though not the yuba).

A plate with two meaty skewers, two pieces of cucumber, and a dollop of white sauce

The soy meat yakitori came next. I thought it was fantastic, really tender and tasty. Dr HH thought it was just standard mock meat though.

Two gyoza sitting in a little bit of dressing, topped with some greens

Next came two dumplings, which were fine but not really remarkable, in terms of flavours.

A tray with five small plates. One is a large piece of aubergine, one has lots of small pieces of greens, one has two slices of sweet potato, one has some pickled radish and tofu, and one has a big piece of fried tofu.

The obanzai assortment was next, which was five little dishes. We all enjoyed the deep fried tofu, braised aubergine, and candied yams (which were not very sweet). Nobody was too dazzled by the radish, which was a bit bland, and I really disliked the taste of the mustard greens, but my companions loved them – I think that’s just personal preference.

A big piece of mock meat with a few salad leaves

Next we received the soy meat yakiniku, which we all agreed this time was just standard soy meat. It was a bit chewier and tougher than I would have liked. I’m not familiar with the original dish though, so maybe it was totally accurate. It wasn’t bad, but certainly not the best course.

A translucent soup with a few colourful pieces in it

The osuimono soup was the only real dud of the meal for us, with all three of us agreeing it was quite bland and insipid, unfortunately.

A triangular rice ball topped with a thick brown paste

The grilled miso rice balls were good fun – plenty of rice to ensure we were full, and tasty miso on top. The grilling left it with a slightly bitter taste to me, but Dr HH thought it was absolutely perfect. Mother HH had never had really had miso before, and this was a bit too strong an introduction for her.

Two small squares of chocolate truffle, topped with cocoa powder

But we were all in agreement about the dessert! We finished with chocolate yokan, which was really decadent and rich, kind of like a smooth truffle texture.

While everything was good, truthfully if I’d had to wait an hour I think I’d have been a little bit underwhelmed. The seasoning was a bit off in places, and it takes a lot to warrant standing and waiting for food for me. Also, the seating is at a bar on high stools, which is never my favourite arrangement.

That said, the menu is creative and fun, with some dishes that were totally new to me and some I was eager to try veganised. The restaurant is absolutely tiny and it’s really impressive how the two women prepare all the dishes in such a small space. I really admire what they’re doing, and recommend it – if you get the timing right for a short wait.

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Vegan in Kyoto: Vegan Sushi Kyoto

A tray with six pieces of sushi, five little side dishes, and a bowl of miso soup

After eating at the Tokyo branch in the first week of our trip to Japan (review here), we were all excited to try the newly-opened Kyoto branch too. The menu is a little different, with fewer pieces of sushi and a selection of little side dishes instead, which helped to justify the decision to (essentially) revisit the same place.

The sushi was well seasoned with good toppings – all of them the same as the offering in Tokyo, but only six rather than ten in this branch. They were: scrambled egg, tuna mayo, vegan meat, Japanese ginger, shiitake mushroom, and tempura. None of us were very keen on the scrambled egg, and were quite disappointed that that was one of the repeat items. The others were all good. The tuna remains incredible, and the pickled ginger packs plenty of flavour without being too ferocious.

A small dish of cold matcha noodles and another with agedashi tofu

There were five obanzai (small dishes) as well: matcha soba, yuba, karaage, agedashi, and pickled turnip. The matcha noodles were the highlight from the side dishes. The soy meat and agedashi tofu were really tasty, but both suffered from being a bit cold and soggy. Imagine how good they would be crisp and fresh! But I understand that it’s much easier to serve them this way.

Three small dishes, one with fried vegan meat, one with pickled vegetables, and one with yuba

There was also a miso soup, which was tasty too and definitely one of the better ones of our trip.

It was a really good experience overall, even if there were a few things that weren’t to our personal tastes. The service was excellent, and it’s still a really exciting menu, in a place without that many vegan sushi options. This was a more spacious restaurant than the Tokyo one, and we were pleased to be sitting at a table rather than a bar for a change!

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Vegan in Kyoto: Coyote

A slice of toast topped with scrambled tofu and a slice of banana bread

It’s always tricky on holiday to find somewhere for breakfast that has vegan options, is not a million miles out of your way, and opens at a reasonable hour. So we were delighted to find Coyote, a vegan-friendly cafe really close to the train station in Kyoto that opens at actual breakfast time. We spent a week in Kyoto and came here one morning before catching a train.

A slice of toast topped with scrambled tofu

All three of us had the egg toast and enjoyed it very much. It was a good thick slice of warm toast topped with a generous portion of well-seasoned vegan scrambled egg. It had a good eggy texture and flavour, with just the right amount of salt and pepper. Most tofu scrambles in Prague are criminally under-seasoned, so we were thrilled! However, the egg was cold. It would definitely have been better if the topping was warm. We are used to having warm scrambles in the UK and Europe, so this was a bit unexpected. Another down side is that this was a small portion – we definitely needed something to accompany it.

Fortunately, there was cake! We also got banana bread and citrus bread slices and these were nicely baked and well flavoured. It seems like they have banana bread every day, and rotating additional loaves. They had just run out of blueberry when we placed our order, so it was lemon bread for us.

A cafe latte and a chai latte on a wooden table

Dr and Mother HH got cafe lattes, which were nice, and I was delighted to see chai latte on the menu, which I find a bit scarce in Japan. It was tasty!

A lot of tourists are looking for the same breakfast gold that we are (open early, convenient location, vegan options), which means that this place is jumping. We had to wait a few minutes on entering for some seats to open up, but it was worth it. As it’s quite small and crowded, we were wary of going back when we had our luggage with us, so bear that in mind. But this is definitely recommended for a light breakfast in Kyoto!

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Vegan in Yokohama: Rucy + R

A park filled with trees including cherry trees in bloom, under a bright blue sky

We took a day trip to Yokohama on this holiday, the first time we’ve visited it. It’s not far from Tokyo, and easily reachable by train. Our main incentive was to see some (hopefully) less crowded cherry blossom, and have a brief break from the intensity of such a huge city. While researching the day trip, we were pleased to note that there was an all-vegan Japanese curry place in the train station, so we made sure we would be passing through there at a suitable lunch time.

A bowl of side salad, rice, and curry sauce with vegetables

Mother HH tried the spice curry with vegetables, and she was very happy with it. It was a good assortment of vegetables (perhaps less so if you hate broccoli, as she does), and plenty of rice.

A bowl of side salad, rice, and curry sauce with katsu tofu

It was spice curry with katsu tofu for Dr HH. The sauce was well seasoned and consistent with other Japanese curries we’ve made at home or tried in restaurants, hinting all the right sweet and spicy notes that we’ve come to expect.

A bowl of side salad, rice, and curry sauce with katsu tofu

I got the Japanese curry with katsu tofu, which was similar but a bit spicier. The katsu tofu was excellent, with a thick, crispy coating. We all got the same little side salad that was well dressed too.

Ginger ale seems to be all the rage in Japan, or at least in the vegan restaurants – we ordered it almost everywhere. Mother and Dr HH enjoyed the ginger ale here. I branched out and got an iced chai which was delicious and quite heavily spiced with cinnamon (a good thing for me).

This restaurant was not the easiest place to find initially but the explanations on Happy Cow are accurate, and once you get yourself into the basement floor in the food court area it’s pretty easy to get to.

A cluster of cherry blossom trees in bloom in a park

We didn’t get to do everything we’d planned in Yokohama because Dr HH was struck down by a sudden illness (he fully recovered, don’t worry). Luckily we’d started our day with the outdoor activities that were highest on our list. We started out at Negishi Forest Park, which had loads of cherry blossom and was less crowded than the Tokyo parks we’d already seen. There were lots of people picnicking and enjoying the scenery, and there was so much blossom, it was really pretty.

A view across a pond lined with cherry trees in blossom and a pagoda on a hill on the opposite side

We took a bus from there to Sankien Garden, which was quite a sprawling place which we didn’t see too much of in the end. We enjoyed a walk around this lake in the centre, which was lined with cherry trees in full bloom and nice relaxing views. We were told by a guide that there was a lot more to see, but we were trying to keep things moving and were really prioritising the cherry blossom. If you are visiting out of cherry blossom season, I think this garden would still be worth a visit, there was plenty to see and it was really well tended.

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Vegan in Tokyo: Ain.Soph Journey

Two pillowy pancakes topped with ice cream  and cream and served with chopped fruit, compote, and nuts

We went to various Ain.Soph branches a few times on our original trip to Japan in 2019 (reviewed here), but didn’t return on our visit last year because we didn’t think the savoury menu was that good. The western items were ok, but we really wanted Japanese dishes, and those weren’t too inspiring to us. This time, we really wanted a chance to take Mother HH for some vegan Japanese pancakes, because they are so different from the ones we get in Europe, so we decided to book ourselves in just for dessert. I remembered the different branches all being very popular six years ago, so we used the online reservation system just to be on the safe side. We booked for 1.45pm just for pancakes – you have to select in advance what meal type you want. I’m glad we booked, as it was busy when we arrived. By 2.30pm it was really quiet though.

Two pillowy pancakes topped with ice cream  and cream and served with chopped fruit, compote, and nuts

We ordered two rounds of heavenly pancakes and one strawberry pancakes (a seasonal special – they also had a strawberry millefeuille for the season). In all cases, the pancakes were very different from American or European pancakes I’ve had before – they were more like a scone in their texture, with quite a cakey base and a slightly crisp exterior. They were quite dense, but really tasty. The heavenly pancakes came with an assortment of fruit, plus nuts and seeds, which added a nice bit of texture.

Two pillowy pancakes topped with ice cream and served with quartered strawberries and syrup

The strawberry pancakes did not skimp on the strawberries, and they were flavoursome too. Dr HH was very happy that he chose this one. Both kinds of pancakes came with cream and ice cream, both of which were delicious. No complaints at all about the pancakes, we were three very happy customers!

A glass of raspberry cream soda with a scoop of vanilla ice cream in it

For drinks, we tried the raspberry cream soda. I thought this would be the classic cream soda which is quite common (though rarely vegan) in Japan – fizzy pop with a sweet, creamy layer on top. But this was actually what I would call an ice cream – fizzy pop with a scoop of ice cream. I was totally astonished by this, though Dr HH insists it was perfectly clear from the photo in the menu. It was tasty and sweet, but definitely far more than I needed to accompany a big plate of pancakes!

Service was friendly and quite fast – there is a note to say the pancakes take about 15 minutes to prepare, so our expectations were well managed and it definitely didn’t take longer than that. We were always happy to visit any eateries which seated us at traditional western tables, rather than at a bar or on lower seating, so in that regard this was a definite winner too!

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