Vegan in Prague: Dosa Dosa

A plate holding a long dosa, a pot of coconut chutney, and a small fresh salad

I am such a fan of dosas. When I heard there as a new all-vegan restaurant in Prague called Dosa Dosa, I was absolutely giddy. Happily, it has met all of my expectations. The menu is not actually exclusively dosas, but for me it’s a shame to go and try anything else. There are several places in Prague where I can get good vegan pancakes or curries, which are also on the menu. Where else can I get a tasty dosa without worrying about any non-vegan elements on the plate?

A plate holding a long dosa, a pot of coconut chutney, and a small fresh salad
The inside of a dosa filled with tofu scramble

Starting, as we always must, with breakfast, here is the breakfast dosa – the usual thin, crispy pancake, here stuffed with tasty tofu scramble and served with coconut chutney. Some of my favourite things about this place are that the dosas are really well stuffed (I’ve had some slightly pathetic ones) and they are served with vegan coconut chutney, which is a rare find for me. There are few things more disappointing than an under seasoned tofu scramble, but I only have praise for this one, it’s a real winner.

A metal try holding a long dosa, coconut chutney, a small soup, a sauce, and some fresh salad
The inside of a dosa filled with potato

The aloo masala dosa is my usual choice from the main menu (and in general, whenever I have a dosa this is my preference), and again it’s really well stuffed and not oily or slimy like they have occasionally been in other eateries. The filling is substantial and tasty. The main dosas are served with a very spicy soup and a couple of chutneys, including the beloved coconut one. There are two size options, but it’s large all the way for me. This is a really delightful dish.

The inside of a dosa filled with soy mince

Dr HH, meanwhile, is a big fan of the soy keema dosa. It’s a bit different from the options you get in non-vegan restaurants, as it’s essentially vegan soy meat. He’s tried it twice, and once it was minced and once chunks. He preferred the chunks for texture, but it’s tasty either way.

A metal tray with two small round pancakes topped with peppers and fresh coriander, and sections filled with coconut chutney, fresh salad, and a red sauce

We’ve also branched out once and tried the uttapam, which is a couple of small, quite crisp pancakes topped with chopped red and yellow peppers, served with the usual accompaniments. I found the peppers a bit too sweet and off putting, but Dr HH liked the balance of the dish and said it reminded him a bit of cheese on toast. Worth a try anyway, I’d say.

A plate with two hearty squares of chocolate cake with hazelnuts
A big slice of banana bread filled with generous chocolate chunks and walnuts
A slice of a chocolate layer cake with peanut butter cream in the middle and on top

Dosa Dosa also has a really enviable cake counter. There are a two places that have a bit of a monopoly on vegan sweet treats in Prague. Two places have the same ownership and share all the desserts across both locations (Palo Verde and Share Sweet Bar). Krafin provide delicious sweet pastries to Chutnej and an array of non-vegan cafes. So it’s nice to visit somewhere with some different options every now and then. We’ve had brownies there, which were not great brownies but were great chocolate cake, a peanut butter cake which was decadent, and banana bread which is highly recommended and is a regular fixture – the chocolate chunks are fantastic.

A glass filled with creamy yellow mango lassi, topped with fresh mint leaves and served with a metal straw

And, along with the coconut chutney, there’s one more speciality that I rarely find veganised here – mango lassi! In summer this was a really welcome refreshing drink.

The downsides of Dosa Dosa are that it’s very small, very popular (it’s in a touristy area), and diners tend to spread out and stay for a while. I’ve managed to book a table via email before (though you may also try on the phone if you are not averse to phone calls like I am), and it’s definitely worth a try if you’re determined to get in. I believe they have a garden area open in the summer, so maybe that’s the best time to visit, when there’s a bit more seating.

Overall I consider Dosa Dosa to be one of the best all vegan spots in Prague these days, and probably the most well-rounded – it serves breakfast as well as other meals, and has great baked goods as well as savouries, and the food is routinely well seasoned. Definitely add it to your list if you’re in Prague!

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Vegan in Alicante: BodhiGreen Vegetariano and Laneu Helados Frescos

The sea and beach of Alicante, with the castle sitting on top of a hill in the background

Since my mum moved to Spain during the pandemic, I have spent a fair bit of time at Alicante airport, but, until recently, no time in Alicante itself. We finally put that right last September, when we headed in for a day trip and enjoyed some fun art museums, a very pleasantly situated castle, and some enticing vegan options. I’ve mentioned before that the small towns around my mum’s location do not exactly have a thriving vegan scene, so this was very welcome.

A bowl of vegetable soup, absolutely full of vegetable chunks

At BodhiGreen Vegetariano, Mother HH and I opted for the daily menu. The soup was listed as artichoke, but was actually more of a general vegetable soup. I quite enjoy a soup with big chunks of vegetables, so this was fine for me, and tasted nice and fresh. Mine was tepid, but my mum’s was the right temperature.

A bowl of rice with peanuts and peas, vegetable curry including green beans, broccoli and sweet potato, and two small sweetcorn fritters on the side

And the main was a Thai green curry. Doesn’t it look inviting?! Again, there were lots of fresh vegetables, which were very welcome, and the sauce was well-seasoned without being too fiery. The rice was excellent, really nicely seasoned too and with nice vegetables and peanuts running through. On the right hand side of the photo above you can see a couple of sweetcorn fritters, which I was very excited about. Sadly, they were a bit soft and didn’t have the nice crispy texture I was hoping for, but they still tasted good.

This was a nice restaurant that I’d happily return to – service was friendly, the location was quite convenient, and there were quite a few vegan options on the menu. We really enjoyed having a leisurely lunch there.

A takeaway cup of ice cream containing a big scoop of dark chocolate ice cream and a smaller scoop of coconut ice cream

There are a few spots in Alicante where you can pick up some vegan ice cream or sorbet – I significantly prefer ice cream to sorbet, so at Laneu Helados Frescos I shunned the fruit sorbets in favour of a scoop each of chocolate and coconut, which is one of my favourite flavour combinations. It was lovely and refreshing for a hot September day by the sea.

These are both great choices for when you’re in Alicante, but they’re by no means the only options, so I’ll be hoping for an opportunity to branch out soon!

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Vegan in Berlin: 1990 Vegan Living

A platter with five different tapas dishes

Finishing off my Berlin posts (until my next visit!), here’s a delightful vegan Asian tapas spot called 1990 Vegan Living. They don’t only serve tapas, but that’s the only section of the menu I’ve ever looked at because it’s such a treat to order lots of different dishes and try them all. This place does not take reservations, which always stresses me out a bit because I like to meticulously plan my eating itinerary, but the good news is that it’s in an extremely vegan-friendly area (you’ll see vegan options listed almost everywhere nearby) and on both of my visits I’ve got the lovely outdoor table I wanted.

It’s one of those places where you get a piece of paper and pencil and have to mark how many of each item you want. I like that kind of ordering system a lot! Service was fast and friendly on both of our visits, and I liked that all the food came at once – perfect for photographing the entire feast and strategically leaving the best dish for last, rather than potentially finishing on a dud because it’s the slowest to cook.

Let’s dive into the dishes I’ve tried!

A small bowl overflowing with oily looking well cooked aubergine and mushroom, topped with sesame seeds and fresh herbs

This one is the Rausch der Sinne, which is beautifully tender aubergines with shiitakes and tofu in a lovely chilli, ginger, garlic, basil sauce. This dish is all about how well cooked the aubergines are, and we were extremely satisfied with how they just melted away. This is a good time to note though that the dishes you get are not actually filled with what you ordered, there’s always a large bed of salad in there. So this wasn’t a bowl full of aubergine, rather a bowl full of salad and topped with the aubergine. I’m not complaining about it, but I think it’s always important to manage your expectations about how much food you’re going to get!

A bao bun filled with soy meat and stripes of fresh vegetables, topped with fried onion and drizzled with a bright red sauce

This was the bun bao taco – a steamed bun with a meaty patty, mango, fried onion, hoisin chilli sauce. It’s not the easiest dish to share, but we did our best. It has a good texture from the crunchy vegetables against the fluffy bun, and the sauce brought a lot of flavour.

A bowl with four big beige chunks of food

Thit Bung is listed in the menu as crispy soy stripes covered in sesame and garlic, and this was not quite what I was picturing. They were quite pleasant, but not exactly what we’d been hoping for.

A bowl with guacamole at the top and two crispy wontons poking out of the top

This again is the secret garden – a wonton filled with tofu and mushrooms, though “filled” is a bit of a generous term, they’re quite sparse. It’s served with guacamole, though most of the bowl pictured here is full of salad and just topped with guacamole. This one falls a bit flat for me, the flavours aren’t amazing though the texture is good.

Two skewers each holding three stuffed leaves, on a bed of fresh salad

Here you can see La Lot, which is betel leaves wrapped around tofu and mushrooms. These ones were very tasty and, crucially, very easy to share!

A platter with six different tapas dishes

Here’s a similar spread from a previous visit when we did not make note of which dishes we ordered (though some were definitely the same as on our second trip). Everything looks so fresh and inviting! Even though it isn’t overall the tastiest food I’ve had, looking at this picture makes we want to go again, it’s so much fun trying lots of little dishes!

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Vegan in Berlin: Feel Seoul Good

A plate of noodles, fresh herbs, vegetables and a big helping of orange kimchi

Prague has a lot of vegan options, but one area where it does not thrive is Korean food. So when I’m in other cities I’m always looking for vegan Korean eateries to try, and Feel Seoul Good has become a must-visit in Berlin. While the food itself is excellent, my positive associations with it are helped by the fact that on both of my visits we’ve sat outdoors eating at sunset, enjoying watching life pass us by. But make no mistake: the food is good too!

A large perfectly round pancakes with salad in the centre and a peanut butter coloured sauce in a ring around it

This pancake is listed as a snack on the menu, so ordering it as a starter is a bit ambitious, though nevertheless I have done it twice. It’s quite a thick pancake but maintains a nice crispness at the edges, and the peanut sauce is really flavoursome. Do bear in mind that this is more of a light meal than a starter.

Six crispy nuggets with a fresh side salad sitting in a bright orange spicy sauce

Dr HH tried the ketchup crunch, which is a very unappetising name to me. The crunch part is the coating of these soy chunks, and they’re sitting a nice spicy sauce. Despite the name, this is a dish that is very much up my street, I love a good mock meat.

A steamer containing sealed dumplings with a visibly orange filling. In the centre is a small dish with a dark dipping sauce

On our second visit, Dr HH ordered mandu kimchi for his starter and raved about them. He convinced me to try one, even though I’m not crazy about kimchi. They were indeed fantastic! The flavour wasn’t too fiery, so they were perfect for me. We both ultimately preferred this dish to his previous crunchy starter.

A plate of noodles, fresh herbs, vegetables and a big helping of orange kimchi

This is certainly one of the wok tossed dishes of noodles, vegetables, soy chunks, and kimchi, though we didn’t make a note of which one of the four. The freshness of the vegetables balances out any oiliness in the dish, and we really enjoyed it.

A large metal plate with chunks of marinated soy, white noodles, and uncooked vegetables and herbs

On our last visit, we ordered the BBQ menu for two, and it was quite the experience! Neither of us had ever had a dish like this before, so we were a bit worried about our ability to cook our own meal at the table – fortunately, the instructions from the waiter were perfect and he came back to check we’d switched everything off properly at the end. We got a plate of noodles, saucy soy meat, and raw veg, and cooked it up at our table.

Vegetables and soy chunks cooking at a table top cooker

It took a while, of course, but it was really tasty! And it was a very generous portion, I really didn’t need that pancake beforehand. The meat was the highlight, really saucy and flavoursome.

A dish almost overflowing with several different types of pickles

It was served with pickles and rice, making the meal even heartier. We were absolutely stuffed by the end, but very happy as well. It’s always fun to try a dish that you can’t get locally, and I’m already perusing the menu to see what new dishes we can try next time!

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Vegan in Manchester: Off the Hook

A crispy battered banana blossom fish served with a generous helping of chips on blue and white stripy paper

I haven’t had a proper fish and chips for literal decades, so I was thrilled to find a really good vegan version in Manchester. I was also quite shocked to find out how large a serving is! I’ve had vegan fish and chips in restaurants, but it’s usually pretty small pieces and a light smattering of chips. But Off the Hook in Sale is a proper chippie, doing proper size portions. The vegan option didn’t look notably smaller than the fish one. Rejoice!

Several pieces of crispy battered banana blossom fish served with a generous helping of chips on blue and white stripy paper

Off the Hook is a regular chippie, but with a clearly labelled and separately fried vegan option. The chips are fantastic, as you can see in the picture. The fish is banana blossom with a really good crispy batter without being too oily. In terms of texture, it’s a really good approximation of real fish and chips…to someone who hasn’t had it for almost thirty years. The seasoning is really good and savoury, but it’s not actually particularly fishy. That wasn’t a big problem for me in the end, because the texture was so enjoyable, but it’s worth noting if you are really craving a proper fish substitute. The dish is extremely filling, you might not need an evening meal if you have this at midday.

Dr HH and I frequently reminisce about this place and lament that we haven’t really found anywhere else with such a good option. It’s not a super convenient spot for us to get to now when we’re visiting Manchester (Sale is about 20 minutes from the city centre on a direct tram, for anyone unfamiliar with the area), but it’s worth the effort when the food is this good! As well as the vegan fish and chips, they also have a vegan kebab and vegan burger, but as you can probably tell, I only have eyes for the fish!

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Vegan in Berlin: FREA

A bowl of bright red liquid circled by slices of red and yellow tomatoes with micro herbs and bright green sauce

As a firm fan of FREA Bakery in Berlin, I was keen to visit their sister establishment, a fine dining restaurant simply called FREA. It is recognised for its sustainable approach, making it somewhere I’m happy to support. There are quite a few all-vegan fine dining places in Berlin these days, but this is the only one I’ve visited so far. Overall, it was a bit of a mixed bag.

A plate with four different types of bread and a little dish of oil

Full marks for serving a bread basket though! That is very much the way to my heart. As you’d expect from an establishment connected to a bakery, the bread was fantastic.

A creamy, fennel based dish topped with lots of dill

Dr HH got the mushroom ceviche for his starter, which listed the promising ingredients fennel, king oyster mushroom, seaweed, and beurre blanc. He loved it, particularly the contrast of the rubbery texture of the mushrooms with the crunch of the fennel. It tasted strongly of the sea, with plenty of dill and seaweed running through it.

A bowl of bright red liquid circled by slices of red and yellow tomatoes with micro herbs and bright green sauce

This beautiful dish was the panzanella, which I chose for my starter. It continued our tradition of getting really spectacular tomato dishes whenever we go fine dining. It was really tasty, with delicious zingy tomatoes and crunchy croutons.

A big pasta parcel in a beige sauce with charred cauliflower on the side

Dr HH ordered the raviolone for his main, which was an underwhelming pasta and cauliflower dish. He found it both too sweet and too sharp (there was a lemon sauce), just not quite balanced properly. He wasn’t a fan of this one.

A large slab of auberine in brown brother, coated in red sauce and drizzled with green and white stripes

My main, simply called eggplant, fared much better. It was bursting with delicious flavours of aubergine, tomato, and basil, and felt quite light but still nice and filling. It looked really attractive and smelled delicious, which also didn’t hurt.

A rich fruity sauce topped with a big dollop of cream, with fresh berries and a dough sphere soaked in fruit juice

To finish, we both ordered the same dessert, cherries and berries. It didn’t live up to the promise of its name for either of us, unfortunately. The big ball of almond ricotta had quite a dense texture and was not light or creamy as we expected – a bit like marzipan in its texture. The cherry flavour may not actually have been artificial, but it tasted like it, and that is never very enticing to me. It was sitting atop some aubergine cream, which did not taste of aubergine at all and was perfectly unassuming. The fresh fruity flavours were fine, but it was an underwhelming end to the meal for us.

I admire what FREA are aiming for, but they’re not quite at the very top level yet for me. The dishes were a bit hit and miss, and I didn’t love the service – one of the staff asked if I was out of breath on arrival (I was not) and asked later on if I was tired (I was not), which seemed a bit unflattering and unnecessary to me. Nevertheless, we liked their approach to sustainability and seasonal ingredients, and would be willing to give it another go.

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Vegan in Berlin: The Sanctuary

Four vegan pastries looking very delicious

The Berlin pastry dream continues! As well as its plethora of vegan doughnuts, Berlin now has enough vegan pastry shops that we couldn’t reasonably visit them all on a quick weekend visit. It’s a tough old life! The Sanctuary is an Italian bakery which is all vegan, and it was really good. The pastries were big and delicious. We were there for opening time on a Sunday morning, and people were queuing out the door within ten minutes – it’s popular, and justifiably so.

A bakery counter with about 8 different vegan pastry options to choose from

Here’s the full counter at opening time – or at least, the sweet side. It seemed like the savoury offerings were a little slower to be brought out, because who wouldn’t want a nice sweet treat to start the day. As you can see, there were lots of tempting bakes to choose from. This is precisely how I like to start my days!

A crispy pastry tube filled with light green pistachio cream and adorned with some pistachio chunks

I tried the cannoncino pistachio – a crispy pastry roll filled with pistachio cream, and the girella nocciola, a bigger pastry filled with hazelnut and chocolate cream. Dr HH tried the girella pistachio (as above, but with the pistachio cream inside) and a Danese (blueberry Danish) – he enjoyed the fresh fruit on that one. The creams were all light and flavoursome, and the pastry was very good but not quite the crispest and flakiest we’ve had (even in Berlin). It’s nice to be able to be so discerning about vegan pastries these days! I’ve been vegan for more than ten years now, and agonising over how to rank vegan bakeries is a problem I’m very pleased to have.

A slice of focaccia

We also got some savoury snacks to take away for the bus ride back to Prague. Neither of us could resist the cacio e pepe focaccia, and I was pleasantly surprised by how well it kept the flavours of cheese and pepper – I was expecting it to be much milder than it really was. It was a good bake as well. There were quite a few savoury pastries to try, but we were a bit cautious about how they would travel, so this was a safe and convenient option, but I’d like to explore a bit more what they’ve got.

Overall, I found the pastries not quite as good as at FREA Bakery, but still very good indeed. A drawback of The Sanctuary is that there is not a lot of seating, just a couple of tables and seats at a bar, which is quite cramped. Also, in true Italian style, the drinks menu was quite coffee heavy with no chai latte on offer, which is a disappointment for me personally. So you may need to plan to get your goods to go, but you certainly won’t regret a visit.

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Vegan in Berlin: FREA Bakery

A plate of four pastries - two pastry cups filled with custard, a snail, and a bun with crusty pieces on top

This bakery is the stuff of dreams with its sensationally crispy pastry. It’s not an exaggeration to say that FREA Bakery is now our main incentive for visiting Berlin. The vegan pastry scene is now actually very good in Prague, but I believe that FREA Bakery is in a league of its own.

A cardamom croissant, which is not croissant shaped but more of a small round bun with lots of angular pieces on top

The star of the show is this cardamom croissant – look at that lamination! The fun shaping makes it easy to pull apart and gives it lots of fun, crispy egdes which contrast beautifully with the fluffy insides. The flavour of cardamom is quite delicate. The texture is simply sensational.

A pastry cup with nice laminated edges, filled with creamy custard

This beautiful concoction is a spandauer – essentially a pastry cup filled with sweet custard. It suffers from the classic problem with this kind of dish, that the custard is a bit too wet and makes parts of the pastry a bit soggy. I wish it was a bit more set. But still, it’s delicious!

A pastry snail topped with poppy seeds.

Dr HH tried the marzipan twist which I was worried would be a bit too heavy and almondy, but was actually perfectly balanced. Again, the texture was spot on.

Three vegan pastries - a cardamom croissant, gigantic chocolate croissant, and spandauer

And here’s a throwback to our first visit in 2022, when the cardamom croissant looked a little less refined but was no less delicious. As well as the spandauer, we also got a chocolate hazelnut croissant on that visit, which was also really decadent and delightful.

Unfortunately I don’t think this spot takes reservations, so on both of our visits we’ve got there early and hoped for the best. You can get takeaway as well if you don’t want to risk it, but there is quite a bit of seating, particularly when the weather is good enough to sit outside. This place has become the first place on our Berlin itineraries now, and I’m already counting down to my next visit!

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Vegan in Milan: Giardi

As we were leaving Italy after our trip to the Cinque Terre, we needed to grab a very quick lunch close to Milano Centrale train station. Fortunately, we found the ideal spot in Giardi, an all vegan fast food place just a few minutes’ walk away.

A tightly packaged toasted sandwich with a small serving of roasted potato chunks

Dr HH tried the enticingly named oh my sandwich, which was a toasted chicken sandwich. Unfortunately the toasting was a bit too much and the bread was slightly burned. The sandwich was quite light on mushrooms, so it was lacking in that flavour, and he could barely taste the mustard either. Fortunately the chicken was good, and he enjoyed the roasted potato chunks on the side.

A burger

The same side dish was served with my uao burger, which was a homemade patty with cheese and BBQ sauce. It was hearty, but again not really packing a big flavour punch and the bread was a bit tougher than I’d like.

A small pieces of cake topped with a glossy sauce and chopped walnuts

We were hustling to the airport, so we got our desserts to take away. Dr HH had the walnut cake, which was tasty. The sticky sauce was needed as the sponge was a little dry, but he enjoyed the flavour.

A dense looking brownie slice, topped with fruity jam

And I had the chocolate brownie, which was topped with a sticky, fruity sauce. I don’t always love that kind of sauce, but it worked well on quite a dry cake, so no complaints here.

Service was fast, which we needed, and friendly, which we always appreciate. The portions filled us up for our flight home, so job done, and the location is perfect for travellers, but this is not a meal we’d be rushing back for in other circumstances.

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Vegan in Genoa: Jaa Nu’ Rosticceria Vegana and Box Cream

Some grand old buildings under a bright blue sky in Genoa

The weather was pretty grim on our trip to the Cinque Terre – we went in October, which is always a bit of a gamble. There were two perfect days, one total washout, and one that was a bit grim but basically the damage was already done to the trails from the previous day’s downpour. So, we decided to take a day trip on that day instead, in the hopes that we could find some sun in a different place – and some better vegan options. Generally, it was a success.

A very beige plate of food including a slab of dry beige lasagne

The vegan options we found weren’t spectacular, unfortunately, but they did fill us up. We had our lunch at Jaa Nu’ Rosticceria Vegana, which is a pay-by-weight vegan deli that was doing a roaring takeaway trade. There were just a few seats at a bar, but it was primarily intended that you would piece together a box of food from the options on display (a few mains, lots of vegetabley sides) to takeaway.

This was the broccoli lasagna with a couple of sides, as ordered by Dr HH. Your immediate thought is probably that it does not look like the most appetising lasagna. Unfortunately, that was the case. It was quite dry and stodgy, with a very monotonous texture. We did enjoy the sides though – we both got fennel, cauliflower, and tempeh with vegetables. It seemed like a big oversight that there were no potato-based sides, but maybe this is what happens when you’re in southern Europe!

A slice of lasagna with notable ragu and bechamel colours, alongside some vegetable side dishes

I got the same sides, but chose the soy ragu lasagna, which was more appetising and less dry, thankfully. It wasn’t the best lasagna I’ve ever had, but it was perfectly fine and filled me up.

A mini calzone with sun dried tomatoes peeking out

Dr HH couldn’t resist getting a mini calzone as well, which turned out to be the highlight of the meal. The sun dried tomatoes gave it a lot of flavour, and we both enjoyed it.

As we were staying in to eat, the server warmed up our meals for us. She was also really helpful in explaining the dishes in English. Full marks for service, but the food was not mindblowing.

A cup filled with dark chocolate ice cream topped with a scoop of white almond ice cream

There were a few dessert options in the counter, but we decided to skip them in favour of some ice cream. We had our hearts set on Box Cream, a gelateria which had clearly labelled vegan options. They were mostly the standard options you find in Italy – dark chocolate and various fruits. But they also had almond, which is a novelty for me, so I had a scoop of that with the chocolate. It was a fun combination, the flavours were generally good and strong, and the texture was perfect, really creamy. There were a few indoors tables, which we used because we were keen for a rest, but it’s a good location for taking away and eating while meandering through the streets or towards the sea.

Ultimately, we weren’t dazzled by either the sights or the vegan options in Genoa (there were more vegan eateries that only opened for dinner, but we were just visiting during the day), but we had limited planning time. We were happy to have successfully chased some blue sky and found some vegan food that was not just a plain pizza and that we didn’t have to cook ourselves. Victory!

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