Top Ten of 2023

Posted on January 1, 2024 by Jenny

Starting on 1st December, most of my conversations involve ranking my highlights of the year in different categories. So to take those discussions out of my home and into the public domain, here’s a list of my top eateries of the year, in no particular order.

1. FREA Bakery, Berlin

A plate of beautifully laminated pastries

FREA Bakery is absolutely sensational. We visited for the first time in 2022 and were desperate to return in 2023 and get twice as many pastries this time. And we did it! I haven’t posted about this place yet, but just look how attractive the pastries are. It’s an all vegan bakery, and the cardamom croissant at the front of the picture is just incredible. Having breakfast here is a delight. Read more here.

2. Spicy Moon, New York

Salt and pepper tofu

One of our highlights of New York was Spicy Moon, a Szechuan eatery that all three of us on the trip raved about. My salt and pepper tofu was so well seasoned and crispy, Mother HH loved her fried rice, and Dr HH couldn’t praise his mapo tofu enough. He was inspired by that meal to make his own mapo tofu (pictured below), and I like a meal that inspires us to cook.

A bowl of homemade mapo tofu

3. Mamacoffee, Prague

Two small cups of thick hot chocolate on a silver tray on a table

Mamacoffee has become my go-to spot in Prague for a hot chocolate, and we pop in most weeks for a small cup of thick, decadent chocolate nectar. It’s so good you would almost need a spoon for it, and we certainly need a good walk afterwards.

4. Temple of Seitan, London

A pot filled with chunks of vegan chicken under a thick coating

There are few things I love more than vegan chicken, so Temple of Seitan is always a winner for me. The chicken itself has a lovely fibrous texture and the coating is crisp and well seasoned. The mac and cheese is also out of this world. I love mac and cheese but usually resist the temptation to order it in restaurants because it’s never better than the version I make – Temple of Seitan is a rare exception. Read more about what we had here.

5. Eleven Madison Park, New York

A bread bun with lots of exquisite looking layers and plenty of seasoning on top

Eleven Madison Park has to be on the list really. It was absolutely sumptuous fine dining and a truly special, once in a lifetime (alas!) experience. This bread remains perhaps the most delicious thing I have ever eaten. Besides it being a properly tasty feast, it’s also exciting to see vegan food being given the full fine dining experience. Also, it was great to share the experience with Dr HH and Mother HH, who was having her first trip to a fine dining establishment. She recently shared that she found this meal more impressive than the stuff she sees on MasterChef: The Professionals, because these chefs are being so creative with such simple ingredients. Find out more about our meal here.

6. Satsang, Prague

A breakfast burrito served with a pot of salsa and a side salad

Satsang fell off my radar for a couple of years during the pandemic, but it is now back with a vengeance and is our number one breakfast spot in Prague these days. The breakfast burrito is so well packed and tasty. The pancakes are fluffy and sweet. The chai latte has a nice spicy kick. Honestly, the brunch is so good that they’ve made this list even though they charge extra for plant based milk.

7. Land, Birmingham

A bowl with confit tomatoes and a split green sauce

Again, it’s great to see what a creative and talented chef can do with vegetables at Land in Birmingham. There’s so much skill and flavour. The tomato dish pictured here was one of my favourites of the year. More on this spot here.

8. Gauthier Soho, London

A chocolate covered cube, with a little bit of white crème fraiche on top and some gold leaf

I was really thrilled to get back to Gauthier Soho for a second visit this year – it’s ambitious and fun, and just really special. I’m not always impressed by the desserts in fancy places, but this was a proper dessert in my opinion, all chocolate and caramel and cream.

9. Krafin, Prague

A croissant muffin cut in half, filled with pistachio cream

I can barely remember a time when Krafin didn’t exist in Prague, it has become such a source of joy in my life! These delicious croissant/muffin hybrids heralded the arrival of proper vegan pastries in Prague, which is something that was missing for a long time on an otherwise thriving vegan scene. These pastries are up there with the ones you can get in Berlin, which is the highest pastry-based praise I have.

10. Chi Xiao Mian, Prague

A hearty bowl of noodles, broth, tofu, and vegetables

I ate numerous bowls of noodles in broth in 2023, and this one from Chi Xiao Mian was my absolute favourite. The broth is flavoursome, the noodles are perfect, the tofu is spongy, and there’s no filler in there. I’m looking forward to many more visits here in 2024! Find out what to order here.

My main takeaway from this post is that I have a huge backlog of reviews still to share! My second takeaway is that I’ve been very lucky to visit some amazing places and eat some incredible dishes this year, and I hope I’ll be as fortunate again in 2024. Happy New Year!

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Vegan in Fira, Santorini: 5 Senses

Posted on December 18, 2023 by Jenny
Sunset view from Fira

There is one vegan restaurant on Santorini – 5 Senses in Fira (this was another reason we decided to stay in Fira). It’s quite centrally located in the town, making it easy to go and watch the sunset then pop in afterwards for dinner. It wasn’t super busy, but it is the only all vegan spot and I don’t think vegetarian options are abundant either, so it can’t hurt to book a table if you’ve got your heart set on it. It was a pretty spot with fast service, but we found the menu somewhat hit and miss.

Five sticks of fried cheese on a tomato sauce

On our first visit, we split a couple of starters. Fried cheese is a very popular dish in the Czech Republic, so we were excited to try the Greek version. It was fine – the batter was really good and light, but the cheese didn’t taste any better than Violife. We’ve had better, but maybe we’ve been spoiled in Prague.

Deep fried tomato fritters, with the fried cheese in the background

The other starter more than made up for it – the tomato fritters were absolutely sensational! They contained juicy cherry tomatoes and quite a lot of feta, and were perfectly cooked. They were served with some zingy tzatziki. On our second visit, we ordered two rounds of fritters and no other starters. Dr HH has even recreated them at home for us since!

Meatballs under a tomato sauce with roasted potatoes on the side

For my main course, I chose the meatballs. It was good – the meatballs had a good meaty texture and the sauce was really flavoursome. These potatoes are just the kind I like, and they did not disappoint.

Moussaka topped with rocket

Dr HH had his second moussaka of the trip and was not so impressed, unfortunately. He found it quite bland and unexciting, and not nearly as good as the one at Mama Tierra in Athens.

Kebab plate with potato wedges, salad, pita, sauces, and two slabs of meat

We both tried different mains on our second visit. I got the kebab, and didn’t love it – in a trip full of bread, meat, and potatoes, this was the weakest iteration. The meat was quite dry and underseasoned, and the chips and pita were just ok. It just didn’t quite come together for me, and it was not what I was expecting.

Chicken strips in a thick white wine sauce with a quenelle of aubergine puree and some roasted vegetables

Dr HH was even more disappointed with his chicken roast. The menu promised chicken fillets, but he received strips – maybe this is a translation issue, but it was quite a let down. They were nicely charred, but tasted no better than chicken chunks we can buy in our local supermarket. The white wine sauce was very thick and sweet, and the server poured it on so he couldn’t even control its placement on the dish. The aubergine puree was too bland and desperately needed some more seasoning. The sprouts, parsnips, and potatoes on the side were all cold and undercooked. What a disaster.

A bright yellow cheesecake topped with sliced lime

The desserts were an improvement! In a break with tradition, I got the citrus cake and Dr HH got the chocolate one. This cheesecake had an extremely zingy lemon and lime cream (so sour it almost felt fizzy) on a fantastic biscuit base. I have complained many times on this blog about a lack of proper biscuit bases for vegan cheesecakes – this is exactly what I’m after.

A cheesecake with a biscuit base, a raspberry layer, and a chocolate layer, topped with chocolate and fruit

On that note, Dr HH loved the raspberry cream and chocolate ganache on his cake, but was underwhelmed by the base, which was that dreaded raw base made of oats, dates, nuts, or other things of that ilk. If he could have had the same base as mine, he would have been thrilled.

Despite the few misses, we would still go back again and give it another go. I like what they’re trying to do and it’s definitely a place that I want to support. Also, we reminisce about those tomato fritters on a weekly basis!

Beautiful clear water

To work up our appetites for 5 Senses, we had taken a trip on the island bus to Akrotiri in order to see the Red Beach, so named because of the red cliffs that provide a dramatic backdrop. Alas, we did not make it to the beach because the path to walk there had a sign at the start warning people not to use it in case of rock falls. Still, the water by the entry path was beautifully clear and a welcome sight.

An excavated scene from a museum

Back on safer ground, we went to the Akrotiri Archaeological Site which was quite an impressive excavation site (and welcome respite from the blazing sun). It’s always amazing to see intact items from such a long time ago – this was definitely worth visiting.

There are of courses beaches to visit on Santorini and other historic ruins as well – we were a bit scuppered by a short stay and reliance on the buses (I believe most tourists hire cars). But we loved the things we did, and would happily return and do it all again!

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Vegan in Prague: Kai Bistro

Posted on December 11, 2023 by Jenny
A plate containing two toasted bread buns topped with tofu bacon, tofu eggs, and creamy sauces, with a handful of salad leaves on the side.

CLOSED 2023

(I’m interrupting my Santorini posts with this one because I recently found out that this spot is closing down on 22nd December – so I’m posting this now for posterity, and for anyone who wants to visit before the doors are closed for good.)

We were thrilled to see that a new vegan spot had opened not far from where we live, and then even more thrilled when we turned up and found that it was located in the old premises of Incruenti. We reminisce often about the pasta dishes at Incruenti, so it was nice to return to the familiar spot for a new all vegan establishment.

A side view of a plate containing two toasted bread buns topped with tofu bacon, tofu eggs, and creamy sauces, with a handful of salad leaves in the background.

We’ve been a couple of times to try the brunch. There’s a small brunch menu (and I’m of the opinion that a smaller menu is usually a good thing), and it’s quite an enticing one because it contains something that no other vegan spots in Prague serve: tofu eggs benedict. This always sounds like a very fancy and elegant breakfast to me, largely because it’s so rarely spotted in the wild. So Dr HH and I were really eager to try it. Alas, we didn’t really have any experience with non-vegan eggs benedict to compare it to, so we were struggling a bit there. But it was tasty and exciting! The bread was nicely toasted, and the spinach leaves on top were quite unobtrusive. The tofu bacon had a nice taste, but was missing a bit of texture – this is where tempeh might have been a better option. The orange sauce that looks like egg yolk was a really pleasing visual touch, but we couldn’t really detect its flavour. The tofu egg was in quite solid, rubbery rings with a good eggy taste. The hollandaise sauce was nice as well, though we don’t have a frame of reference. All in all, it was an elegant, tasty breakfast.

Three small tortillas topped with refried beans, tomato sauce, tofu scramble, lime wedges, and fresh coriander

I’ve also tried the huevos rancheros, which is another option that I haven’t seen available anywhere else in Prague. Again, it was nice to try something different, though it wasn’t quite firing on all cylinders for me. The tortillas were lovely and soft, and the refried beans were good, but I would have liked a little more flavour in the tofu scramble. The tomato sauce was quite mild in flavour, but it built up while I was eating. All in all it was nice but not mind blowing, and I’d probably opt for the benedict if we had a chance to return.

Unfortunately they never had the chance to acquire the proper hot drinks equipment, so the brunch beverages menu has been a bit lacking.

A plate with battered cauliflower pieces arranged a small pot of red dipping sauce

The evening menu also has some fun items on it. We shared the buffalo cauliflower and immediately wished we’d ordered a portion each. The cauliflower was beautifully tender, and it was nice to be able to control the spiciness of the dish by using the buffalo sauce for dipping, rather than having it already slathered on.

Three small blocks of tofish, a pile of chips, and some pea puree.

The fish and chips was a bit hit and miss. The chips were excellent, and it’s always a treat to find proper chips in Prague rather than fries. The batter around the tofish was also top notch, really crisp and light. However, the pieces of tofu were so large that they ended up feeling underseasoned. If they were just a bit smaller, the flavour of the sea might carry through a bit better from the nori. So it was tasty, but could have been a bit better.

Two hearty sausages topped with soft fried onions sitting on top of creamy mashed potato

They also have daily lunchtime specials Wednesday-Friday, which you can find on their social media. I went along when I saw they had bangers and mash one day. The sausages were really flavoursome and the mash was very smooth and creamy – and it was a generous portion too. The onions were meant to be caramelised, but didn’t taste it, which wasn’t the end of the world. Unfortunately there was no gravy provided, which made for a very dry dish. I like my food quite dry, but this was pushing it even for me.

So if you’re in Prague before 22nd December, give Kai Bistro a try! It’s a shame it’s been such a short lived establishment. The location is not the best because it’s on a fairly quiet road with very few passers by, and it’s kind of close to a Metro station but not really close to anything else, so attracting customers must be a bit tricky. With that kind of location, you probably really need a good hook or unique angle to lure people to make the journey. For me, the brunch dishes in particular were tempting enough to make it worth a trip. Let’s hope another vegan spot gives it a try next.

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Vegan in Fira, Santorini: Falafeland

Posted on December 4, 2023 by Jenny
The Greek flag flying off the back of a boat as the sea stretches between the boat and Santorini

Fira, which you can see disappearing into the distance above, has a handful of vegan options and we visited one of them during our stay. Falafeland is a quick and casual spot with labelled vegan options, just off the main drag.

A falafel wrap drizzled with red sauce and a cone of potato chunks

I did not have my wits about me when it came to photographing this meal – Dr HH’s wrap is barely in the picture above and I completely forgot to snap mine. I must have been hungry!

Anyway, I ordered the original wrap, while Dr HH got the volcano wrap, which was the same but with a bit of spicy sauce (though not enough, he lamented). The falafel was green and herby looking, but not the most flavoursome I’ve had. It was pleasant but not a falafel spot that would stop me in my tracks.

A paper cone filled with small crispy chunks of roasted potato

The potato chunks were very good though! They were crispy and well seasoned, and were a real highlight.

The crater of the volcano, with blue sea, sky, and Santorini in the background

Filled up, if not bowled over, we set off for another afternoon of adventuring. This time we joined a boat trip out to the volcano of Santorini. It was a lovely journey out to it, and a bit of an exposed climb to the top, but well worth it. Brace yourself though – this is an active volcano! It hasn’t erupted for a very long time, and it was in no danger at all of erupting when we were there, but nevertheless I enjoyed feeling like a daredevil for hiking up an active volcano and peering in the grassy-looking crater.

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Vegan in Oia, Santorini: Lotza

Posted on November 27, 2023 by Jenny
Blue sea and sky and the white buildings of Oia in the distance

Oia is, along with Fira, one of the main towns on Santorini, and you can see it far away in the right of the photo above – it’s famous for its white buildings with blue domes. Bus routes connect the two towns, but we wanted to walk there. It’s about a 10km walk and it covers a variety of terrain – sometimes you’re on paved paths, sometimes on tracks, and there was one point when it felt like we were walking on shale. It’s a bit hilly, and it’s all exposed to the elements, but it’s not a difficult walk – just a bit of a long one.

Baked aubergine with tomato and salad drizzled with balsamic vinegar

We certainly arrived in Oia feeling hungry. Happy Cow had suggested that we’d have a few vegan options on arrival, but it was all a bit uninspiring. There was at least one obscenely expensive Beyond Burger option, but I just didn’t feel like that was a smart choice. So we managed to squeeze into the very popular Lotza, which had no labelled vegan options, and trusted the Happy Cow reviewers who said that the baked aubergine was vegan. This was not a remarkable dish. The aubergine was cooked to perfection, and it was stuffed with tomato and onion which was nice, but it was not very filling. On the plus side, there were really nice views from the restaurant – and we had a bag full of snacks.

The view from Oia looking back along Santorini, with white buildings and blue sea

Even with the poor lunch options, we would happily take the walk again. The sea was so blue and the views were constantly astonishing.

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Vegan in Firostefani, Santorini: Onar

Posted on November 20, 2023 by Jenny
Skaros Rock against a blue sea and blue sky

The first leg of our trip to Greece was all about history and archaeology in Athens. The second leg was all about the sea! We were really looking forward to seeing some blue sky and blue sea in Santorini, and it really did not disappoint. It was so beautiful. Every two minutes we had to stop walking and just drink it all in because it was so spectacular.

We were staying in Fira, which is one of the bigger towns and therefore a great option if you are not hiring a car on arrival. We relied on buses and our own feet, and got by very well. When we arrived, we took an afternoon stroll to Skaros Rock, which was an extremely scenic wander. You’re not supposed to climb it, though you can probably see the steps in the photo above – there are some signs warning that it’s dangerous to proceed. We heeded those signs, but I’m not sure if we were in the majority. Even without climbing, it was pleasant to see and made for a lovely introductory walk along the coastline.

Baba ganoush with four small shards of toasted pita

Walking back from Skaros Rock to Fira, we decided to stop in at Onar because it had some labelled vegan options. We were not expecting Santorini to be a good destination for food – we were just there for the scenery – so my expectations were generally quite low. Onar was an expensive spot because it had seating that looked out onto the water and was perfect for a sunset view. All the tables at the edge were reserved, so they squeezed us in as far away as possible from those seats.

There were three labelled vegan options – one main dish which was pasta with vegetables, which did not entice us, and two lighter options. Above is the aubergine salad, which was basically quite a bland baba ganoush with four crispy pita shards. Just the four.

A dish with fava bean dip topped with capers, a caper leaf, and raw red onion

We also ordered the fava bean dip, which again was quite bland – almost like a poorly seasoned hummus. It was only really tasty when you got it with the caper, caper leaf, or raw onion, so they could provide some additional flavour. This one did not come with any bread.

The sun setting behind a Greek island

You can probably tell I would not hurry back. We were ready for a sit down, and it was nice to get something in our bellies, but it was overpriced and unambitious. And honestly, you can see the sunset from just about anywhere between Firostefani and Fira – there was no shortage of sunset opportunities.

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Vegan in Athens: Cookoomela Grill

Posted on November 13, 2023 by Jenny
Two tasty looking wraps

Allow me to finish my Athens posts as I started – with bread, meat, and potatoes! Cookoomela Grill was all vegan and it looked a bit grubby from outside but turned out to be fine. There was no indoor seating when we visited, and just a few outdoor tables. We were there at 3pm (thanks to a hearty breakfast tiding us over) and it was absolutely jumping, so maybe it’s permanently busy!

A fluffy pita filled with mushrooms, salad, and potato drizzled with barbecue sauce

Dr HH ordered the brown and barbecue pita, which was filled with meaty mushroom, potato wedges, and various salad bits. Most of the BBQ sauce and flavours were on the salad items which were going a bit rogue and had to be quickly removed, so it didn’t quite pack the punch it could have – there were some logistical issues with it.

A fluffy pita filled with mushrooms, avocado, salad, and potato

I had the red pita, which had the same mushrooms, potato wedges, and salad, but also some avocado. The bread was good and fluffy, the mushrooms were tasty, and the avocado was creamy – I loved it. We were both a bit deterred by the wedges being in the wrap. Small potato chunks are always a winner; these wedges just felt bulky and unwieldy.

Large potato wedges covered in cheese sauce and scattered with bacon bits

We weren’t aware that there would be wedges in the wraps when we ordered, so we had also ordered a portion of chips with cheese and bacon. We had a version of this dish a couple of times while we were in Spain earlier in the year, and this dish didn’t quite live up to our earlier experiences. The chips were good, and the bacon bits were really flavoursome, but the cheese sauce was a wee bit bland. Still, we fulfilled another round of meat, bread, and potatoes, so we were satisfied and ready to move on from Athens!

Jockey of Artemision statue

For a final attraction, we visited the National Archaeological Museum of Athens, which housed some interesting items – presumably despite the best efforts of the British.

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Vegan in Athens: Joshua Tree Cafe

Posted on November 6, 2023 by Jenny
Three thick, fluffy hot cakes topped with chocolate sauce and fresh strawberries and blueberries

I’ve already mentioned an extremely decadent breakfast we had in Athens – how would the Joshua Tree Cafe fare in comparison? Well, it was magnificent! This café was not all vegan, but it had some vegan hotcakes on the menu, and you know how those things sell. We simply had to try them!

Jenny is smiling with a bowl of hot cakes

I don’t think I knew what hotcakes were, but what we received was three very thick little pancakes, the plumpest I have ever seen. They were topped with a chocolate hazelnut sauce, which was a little gritty rather than perfectly smooth unfortunately, and some fresh fruit, which helped to balance out the richness of the other components. It was very tasty and filling.

A cup of hot chocolate

They also had a tempting drink on the menu – a cocoa and chilli latte, which was basically a hot chocolate with a spicy kick. Delicious! We returned here for a second breakfast and ordered the same again.

The archaeological site, with the acropolis on a hill above

Suitably fuelled up, we spent the morning at the ancient agora of Athens, which is a site with lots of old buildings and fragments in it – less crowded than the acropolis, making it a bit more relaxing to wander around. But a bit less spectacular, obviously.

A beautifully preserved temple

Still pretty spectacular though! I’d definitely recommend this – we got a combo ticket that gave us access to six archaeological sites, and it was worth doing so we could see as much as possible in our few days.

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Vegan in Athens: Treis Laloun

Posted on October 30, 2023 by Jenny
Fried bread topped with a slice of tomato and a thick slice of halloumi, drizzled with balsamic vinegar

Treis Laloun was high on my list of eateries for Athens. It was an all vegan restaurant a little out of the city centre, so it was a bit quieter than some of the other spots we visited. The menu was quite extensive, and it also sold pastries – we had some croissants and cheesy pasties to take away, and found them very convenient and tasty. And we visited the restaurant twice – once for dinner and once for breakfast. We’ll start with dinner.

Fried bread topped with a slice of tomato and a thick slice of halloumi, drizzled with balsamic vinegar

Halloumi is not something I see very often on menus, so Dr HH and I both wanted to try this. The halloumi itself was covered in balsamic vinegar and pesto and sitting on a slice of tomato and a little fried bread. I honestly wasn’t that impressed with it – for me, neither the taste nor the texture resembled halloumi, which I haven’t had much since going vegan, so I was quite excited about rediscovering it. Dr HH was more impressed, even though he agreed it wasn’t necessarily realistic. We shared this starter and were glad we did – the two servings were very generous! We also felt the main courses could have served two, and took leftovers back to our accommodation for the next day.

Fried potato slices and a creamy chicken dish

I am powerless to resist vegan chicken, so I chose the chicken a la crème for my main. The chicken had a great texture, and there were some tasty bacon bits and meaty mushrooms in there as well, under a flavoursome sauce that had just a hint of sweetness but was well balanced.

Fried potato slices and shrimps covered in a creamy sauce and dill

Dr HH meanwhile chose the shrimp, which had a good crispy coating and retained a bit of bite underneath all that sauce. The sauce was creamy and very dilly, with a nice amount of fennel. It was all well cooked.

You could choose your accompaniment for each main from three options: sweet potato puree, rice, or fries. We both requested fries which you can see are not fries at all. These round chips are really not for me, I’m afraid.

Three pancakes sandwiched with chocolate cream and covered in sauces, wafers, and crumbs

There was quite an extensive breakfast menu, including a variety of different pancakes, so we returned one morning and both ordered the Bueno pancakes which you can probably deduce from the photo were a bit much. There were three quite thin pancakes with a lot of decadent sweetness thrown on top and in between: chocolate cream, nougat cream, wafers, etc. I quite enjoyed it (but obviously could not finish it), but Dr HH found it just too much and thought it was crying our for a bit of fruit to cut through the richness.

The Zeus temple, largely covered with scaffolding, but there are a few visible pillars

Our evening visit was after an afternoon trip to the temple of Zeus, which you can see was quite heavily scaffolded. Typical, eh? Still, you could see a couple of the pillars standing upright, and I loved seeing the toppled one on the ground there – it looks like it’s been sliced up into equal servings!

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Vegan in Athens: Peas and Caravel

Posted on October 23, 2023 by Jenny
Jenny is standing in the sun in front of the Parthenon

Our trip to the Acropolis was my absolute highlight of the trip to Athens. And fortunately there was a vegan eatery not too far away from it! We went to Peas for our next bread, meat, and potatoes extravaganza and we were not disappointed. It’s a small, casual spot with very limited seating, but we were fortunate enough to get a seat.

A large pita sandwich with well seasoned chips on top

There was quite a small menu, and Dr HH and I both ordered the same thing: two peas in a pod. It was essentially a sandwich made of two lovely fluffy round pitas, filled with seitan strips, smoked tofu, grilled vegetables, cashew parmesan, mayo, and a bit of lettuce. The giant sandwich was quartered, and topped with chips, which look very pale but were actually alright.

A side view of the pita sandwich with vegetables and meaty chunks, topped with chips

We loved it! The meat was extremely flavoursome, and I found the grilled vegetables a pleasing alternative to the classic salad. It was massive though, as you can see, and eating it as a sandwich was extremely messy. Maybe it would have been better if it were a traditional closed pita, but it’s hard to argue with that beasty portion size when you’re spending the whole day on your feet in the sun.

A cup of chocolate ice cream

Later in the afternoon, we went for dessert in another part of town. Caravel had three clearly labelled vegan ice cream options when we visited: pistachio, vanilla, and chocolate orange cinnamon. We simply had to go for the latter! It was really decadent, creamy, and delicious. This is a really central spot (we walked past it a million times), and it was always quite busy, though there was limited outdoor seating so you might have to eat on the move.

A temple at the acropolis

Away from the food, you probably don’t need me to tell you that the acropolis is worth seeing. We loved it. The scale was really impressive – there was a lot to see, and some of it was spectacularly well-preserved. Prepare yourself for exposure to the elements if you visit, because nothing is under cover.

Statues in the Acropolis Museum

We also went to the nearby Acropolis Museum, which houses some more of the relics…and, of course, a lot of replicas because so many of the works are in the British Museum. Later in 2022 we actually did go to the British Museum to see the other half of the sculptures from the Parthenon, and it was really frustrating to see them out of context, so far from where they belong. Every few months there are stories in the news suggesting that steps are being taken to return them to Greece and house them in the Acropolis Museum – let’s hope it finally happens (and is the start of a bigger handover of stolen history).

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