VeganMoFo 2019: Convenience Store Snacks of Japan

Posted on August 25, 2019 by Jenny

Usually I do all my holidaying in Europe, which means there’s a pretty good chance that I recognise the vegan snacks available, or have enough of an idea about the language to scan for allergens. Japan was a whole different story: there were no English ingredients, and all of the products were completely unfamiliar to me. Fortunately, there is a hardworking network of vegans in Japan doing all the research for tourists like me and cataloguing all the vegan options available in the main convenience store chains: 7-11, Family Mart, and Lawson. We saved this blog post and scrolled through it whenever we entered one of the shops so we could find a suitable snack.

WARNING! Do not, under any circumstances, buy these! All of the Soyjoy Crispy bars are vegan, but they are absolutely disgusting. The banana ones almost made me throw up, they were so strongly (and artificially) flavoured. We bought these early on, learned our lesson, and avoided them like the plague afterwards.

These were much more like it! This is essentially some kind of puffed rice bar, coated in chocolate. Because it contains cereal, we had them for breakfast pretty much every day…they are largely chocolate though. These were my favourite snack we discovered in Japan, and I was devastated to eat the last of the stash I brought home with me.

These Morinaga biscuits were also a good breakfast option, and were readily available at all the convenience stores. There were six crunchy little biscuits in each packet, making them ideal for sharing. The nutty ones were a bit savoury, but the berry ones were better, and the chocolate ones truly excellent!

For salty snacks, we were well-served by Chip Star. These were Pringles-esque (though the outer tube was just cardboard and they were wrapped in plastic packaging inside). The red ones were good and salty; the nori ones were amazing!

We also enjoyed Family Mart’s seaweed crisps, and the 7-11 salted ones. We played it quite safe on the crisps front.

These were a bolder move! These crackers with “happy seasoning” were some weird sweet/savoury hybrid, and they were very moreish. I brought a packet back to the office, and they were a big hit! It’s a shame that each cracker was individually wrapped in plastic though.

Also disappointing on the plastic front was this chocolate bar. I’d expected it to be wrapped in foil, but it was actually three smaller chocolate bars, each wrapped in plastic. It was nice dark chocolate, but I was too mad about the plastic to enjoy it.

Pickled plums are ubiquitous in Japan, but as I’m not a fan of pickles, I steered clear. Dr HH gave this rice ball with pickled plum a whirl though, and found it quite pleasant. It was nice to have a more substantial snack.

And look at this fun treat! After we went to the Inari temple in Kyoto we were dripping with sweat and in desperate need of refreshment. We found these ice lollies in the first convenience store we stumbled into. It was very much “blue” flavour, but all we cared about was that it was cold: it definitely did the job!

Besides the Soyjoy disaster, we were pretty pleased with the snacks we found – and extremely grateful to the vegans who came before us and did all the hard work!

Have you ever tried a Soyjoy Crispy (and lived to tell the tale)? Which Japanese snack would you most like to try?

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VeganMoFo 2019: Curry House CoCo Ichibanya, Okayama

Posted on August 24, 2019 by Jenny

One of the great things about the UK is that a lot of the chain restaurants now have vegan options on the menu, and good ones at that. Our research pointed us towards one Japanese chain with a similar set up. We saw Curry House CoCos everywhere we went, and were always relying on it as an emergency backup just in case all vegan places were closed. Okayama was the only place where we actually needed it, because the vegan options were almost non-existent!

This place has a vegetable curry on the regular menu, but whatever you do, don’t order it! There’s a separate vegetarian menu, which is in fact all vegan, and that’s where you need to order from. It has several options, but they’re essentially all the same sauce with different vegetables.

Fortunately, it’s a good, flavoursome sauce! I got the mushroom, okra, and yam curry. The mushrooms were in the curry itself, while the okra and yam were sliced up in a little pot on the side, which was a bit perplexing. I just tipped it in and mixed it up! Despite this weirdness, it was a nice dish.

Dr HH got the aubergine and vegetable curry, which featured fried aubergine – there’s warning in the menu that the aubergine is fried in the same oil as the meat, so you can make an informed decision on that at least. He declared this a good, tasty curry!

All in all, this was not spectacular food, but it was a solid emergency meal, which is exactly what we were expecting. I’m happy this option exists, but also happy that we only needed to call on it once!

What’s your go-to chain for an emergency vegan eat?

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VeganMoFo 2019: Merci Moncher, Okayama

Posted on August 23, 2019 by Jenny

Travelling light makes everything so much easier. Wherever Dr HH and I are going, and for however many nights, we always pack the same amount: a regular, day backpack that will fit under the seat in front on a flight. It means that we can’t pack anything surplus to requirements, and it also means that we can navigate around relatively easily without dragging suitcases of wielding gigantic backpacks that could knock someone out. It was a massive bonus on this trip in particular because we spent so much time hopping between destinations, and everything was just easier without huge luggage to worry about. On one day in particular it was a huge help: we were travelling from Osaka to our next destination, Okayama, and we were able to stop along the way to visit Himeji as well, without hauling loads of stuff with us.

Himeji was on the itinerary just so we could see the castle. I’m very much a traditionalist when it comes to castles (moat, drawbridge, dungeon, turrets, etc), but I did enjoy the castles in Japan. They were just beautiful!

Then we resumed our journey to Okayama, and found ourselves boarding the Hello Kitty shinkansen, which was quite a fun surprise! Almost everyone on the platform whipped out their phone to start taking pictures as it pulled in.

Then we arrived in Okayama! It was on our itinerary for two reasons: firstly, the castle (I enjoyed the contrast with the white castle we’d just seen in Himeji), and secondly as a base to visit the art island of Naoshima (more on that on Monday). We stayed for two nights, and I wouldn’t have stayed any longer – there weren’t too many sights to see (some very nice gardens though), and the vegan options were particularly disappointing.

Happy Cow gave us a few places with vegan options, but the opening hours were unfavourable, or nothing was labelled vegan on the menu, or they were sold out of that one vegan dish when we got there. It was a tough place!

When we arrived we went for a late lunch at Merci Moncher, located in a shopping centre near the station. Nothing was labelled vegan here, but from the list of ingredients and allergens we deduced that the falafel plate should be fine. And “fine” is what it was: not spectacular, no amazing flavours, just a solid plate of food to sustain us for the afternoon.

We got two nice but unexciting falafel, some brown rice, two different kinds of hummus, some pumpkin and carrot, plenty of red cabbage, a bit of salad, and a little dish of minestrone soup on the side. It was expensive for what it was, but we didn’t really have an alternative and were happy just to find somewhere. It was colourful and fresh, and it did the job!

As vegans, falafel is often a good backup choice when on the go, with the bonus that it’s generally cheap and cheerful. It was a bit of a nuisance that it was so expensive here, but sometimes you just have to take the hit!

Is falafel your saviour on the road as well? And do you travel light?

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VeganMoFo 2019: Eko-in, Koyasan

Posted on August 22, 2019 by Jenny

Our main motivation for visiting Koyasan was to stay at one of the Buddhist monasteries and enjoy a massive feast! This was another example of traditional Japanese accommodation, but it was known as a shukubo, not a ryokan. It had the same set up as the ryokan in Hakone though: simple room, beds made up on the floor, meals served in the room, communal baths. However, all the staff there were monks, and they did not wait on us quite so much (thankfully!).

There are a lot of these monastery accommodations in Koyasan and we weren’t sure how to choose between them initially. Casual research suggests that all of them serve vegan food, but a closer look revealed that a lot still use fish sauce. I managed to establish that Eko-in is actually all vegan, so that was the one for us! By coincidence, it turned out to be the exact same place that a friend of mine stayed at ten years ago. He hated his experience then, saying the monks were quite surly, nobody spoke English, and they were forced to participate in the morning religious ceremonies. Things have clearly changed in ten years: the monks were all very young (students at the nearby university), friendly, and spoke excellent English, and they were quite relaxed about participation in the ceremonies – we essentially managed to slink off when we wanted out. (For the record, I hated being a tourist in someone else’s religion, and would definitely not do this again.)

Like the accommodation in Hakone, it was also in beautiful surroundings. High up in the mountains, Koyasan was a beautiful place. We especially enjoyed the walk through the nearby cemetery, made extra special by the the mist and damp in the air – it was peaceful, and a little spooky. Lots of walking around the little town left us ready for a big feast, and that’s exactly what we got!

Unlike in Hakone, this time we got all our food served to us at the start so we could sit and eat undisturbed and then just call front desk when we were ready for them to clear it away and make the beds. Perfect! After setting out all our trays, the monk who served us announced, “Let me explain the meal for you. This pot has hot tea. This dish has rice.” And off he went! Those are the two things I’m quite confident I could have worked out for myself! Everything else remained a mystery.

It’s hard to say exactly what each dish was…but at least I recognised this one as tempura! It was really good, and I liked the little cake-case of some kind of green salt. It’s just a shame these were already tepid by the time they were served, but I think this is the problem of serving a multi-course feast to every guest at the same time. Also on this tray we had a really flavoursome soup, some wilted greens, a plate of pickles, and a little block of sesame tofu. This was one of the best things we ate in Japan, it was so creamy it was just like if you’d blitzed together some silken tofu with some tahini. Incredible!

This tray was where the lines between sweet and savoury began to blur somewhat! The aubergine was well cooked and served with a sticky, tasty sauce. Everything on the white plate at the back tasted quite neutral: there was some extremely bland seaweed, a pickled pink flower, and four flavourless gelatinous shapes. We weren’t really sure what was going on. The dish in the front left was more baffling still – we could best describe it as some kind of sweet, fig-type fruit in pink syrup with some gelatinous shapes. It felt quite otherworldly. Also there was a fruit plate, which was unexciting but at least I knew what to expect from it!

And the final tray had some weird concoctions too! We got a good spongy piece of tofu, which was really nice. Then there was this pink, gelatinous noodle cube, which looked sweet but wasn’t. It seemed to be tea-soaked. It was nice, but a bit weird! And then we had a strange mixed plate containing very sharp pickles, a sweet potato slice, some black beans, a sticky mochi wrapped in a leaf, and some kind of fruit that tasted just like Bakewell tart but we both agreed wasn’t actually a cherry. Very mysterious!

It was a really fun meal, though I would have preferred a bit more info so I could make a logical progression from savoury to sweet. Dr HH and I would take turns sampling each dish and ask each other after the first bite: “Is it sweet or savoury?”, to which the other would usually reply: “Somehow both…” It was fun having lots of little things to peck at, and that sesame tofu will stay with me forever.

We were up at the crack of dawn to observe the chanting and then the fire ritual, and returned to find breakfast in our room and our beds made up. It was a much smaller meal than the night before, which was probably just as well – I was still fairly full!

For breakfast we had some more rice and hot tea (of course!), a really good miso soup, a little pot of salad that appeared to contain cornflakes (?!), some nori sheets, some tasty brown noodles with mushrooms, an excellent pot of seaweed and sesame seeds (simple but extremely effective!), an absolutely disgusting pickled plum (I hate pickles, so that didn’t really help), an orange, and a lovely little tofu pouch filled with something that was either sweet or neutral, we just couldn’t understand anything any more! Again, it was a fun meal, and filled us up nicely for our journey back down the mountain.

I would really recommend staying at Eko-in. It was such a beautiful place and we felt really well looked after. There were a few weird details – we had to leave our shoes on shelves at the entrance where anyone could have taken them; the door could lock from the inside but not from the outside, so we locked up our valuables in the safe, but anyone could have gone through the rest of our stuff if they so desired. But for one night, for a special experience, I was really happy. I’d go back again, but skip the early morning religious ceremonies, and just have a lie in instead!

Is cornflakes in salad a phenomenon that has passed us by? Would you like to stay in this place?

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VeganMoFo 2019: Bon On Shya Cafe, Koyasan

Posted on August 21, 2019 by Jenny

Koyasan is another of those places that appears on almost every Japanese itinerary I looked at – it’s a small town full of Buddhist temples which double up as tourist accommodation, way up a mountain. Much like our earlier trip to Hakone, it appealed to me because it was a brief foray into nature for some peace and quiet between big cities, and also because it was a chance to have a massive vegan feast in traditional accommodation (more on that tomorrow!).

We travelled from Osaka by train, cable car (if you are scared of heights, it’s quite a terrifying experience), and bus, and finally arrived at Koyasan feeling hungry. Most of the temples serve vegan food, but there were also a few cafes with vegan options too, so we made a beeline for Bon On Shya Cafe which is located on the main (only?) road through town. It was a lovely place, which was a gallery as well as cafe. There was limited seating, but we managed to squeeze in.

There’s a daily lunch option, and if you specify when ordering they will bring the vegan set. It was one of the best lunches we had on the trip! The star of the show was the aubergine quiche, which had the most beautiful thin pastry. The accompaniments were also fun: bread topped with delicious pesto; potato and pumpkin salad in a creamy tofu dressing; refreshing quinoa with tomato and tofu; spicy beans; mock meat with green peppers; and the usual brown rice and green salad. There was an exciting variety of dishes, and we found them all really great.

There was also a vegan dessert, which would have been rude to turn down. We ordered it with soy milk chai masala, which was absolutely bursting with flavour! I’m not a big fan of Japanese tea, so this was exactly what I’d been waiting for. As for the cake, it was a berry tofu cheesecake which had a fruity, creamy topping, and…

…a biscuit base! FINALLY! A vegan cheesecake with an actual biscuit base is essentially the Holy Grail as far as I’m concerned, and here it was. It was perfect. Why can’t this be the standard? Nobody wants a soggy, flimsy little base.

I’m sure some people travel to Koyasan seeking enlightenment and a spiritual experience. I felt like I got everything I was searching for in that piece of cheesecake.

Have you ever found the perfect cheesecake where you least expected it?

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VeganMoFo 2019: Slices, Osaka

Posted on August 20, 2019 by Jenny

Wherever you go in the world, you can always without fail find an Irish pub. Osaka was the first place where we found a Canadian one though! It was quite an unexpected discovery, and I don’t really know what makes a Canadian bar different to any other (besides the massive Canadian flag on the wall, obviously), but this place had a very exciting vegan menu, so I didn’t ask too many questions!

The vegan menu featured exciting dishes like poutine, mac and cheese, lasagne, pizza by the slice, and brownies, plus various bar food options like onion rings. I ordered the fish and chips, because that’s a hard thing for a Brit to turn down! The chips were really well-seasoned, and the fish was battered mushrooms (similar to what we had at Paprika), which were very tasty, though there was no apparent effort to give them a fishy taste (nori, dill, etc). Calling it fish was a bit of a stretch – it was very much chips with battered mushrooms, but that was fine by me!

Dr HH went Japanese and ordered the okonomiyaki, a local speciality which we were yet to see veganised before coming here. Essentially it was a bed of noodles topping with a thin pancake featuring spring onions, cabbage and carrot, and the whole thing was absolutely swimming in teriyaki sauce. There was far too much sauce, so he wasn’t overly impressed by this, but was pleased to get to try the dish anyway.

And we was also pleased with these onion rings that we ordered to share! I felt I already had quite enough oil on my place, so after testing them out I let him devour the rest.

We returned again another evening because we wanted something quick and easy. This time we shared the daily special, which was cheese and jalapeno sticks. They were more spring roll-like than I was expecting, but they were still tasty.

And we each got a slice of BBQ chicken pizza, which was delicious! There was lots of cheese (though it seemed more of a creamy cheese sauce than regular melted cheese), plenty of BBQ sauce for flavour, and a generous helping of tasty little chicken bites. This was absolutely wonderful! From the menu we got the impression that the vegan pizzas weren’t available as a whole, you could only order by the slice, which was a shame – a whole one of these would have been sensational!

This place served its purpose well and gave us the solid comfort food we were craving. The menu also had some fun mocktails too, and service was really friendly in the familiar, western way. My only complaint was that smoking was allowed inside. This was a really difficult concept for me to grasp, having lived with smoking bans for a long time. I don’t really want my food to taste of other people’s cigarette smoke, and I feel bad for the people who work there and have to breathe in the smoke all day. Here’s to more smoking bans!

Have you ever been to a Canadian bar?

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VeganMoFo 2019: Cafe Aina, Osaka

Posted on August 19, 2019 by Jenny

We spent three nights in Osaka, and truthfully I’d say it was too long. The best thing we did in Osaka was actually get a train to a different town! It was a 20 minute train ride to nearby Ikoma, for a day trip that was one of the highlights of our three weeks in Japan. In fact, it was possibly the most fun I’d ever had!

Ikoma is home to a small, family-friendly theme park which you can reach by taking two novelty cable cars. There are four different ones, but there were two that I particularly wanted to ride: the dog train…

…and the cake train!

It was truly everything I’d hoped for!

And the theme park at the top was wonderful! It was all bright colours, animals, and exciting games. Unlike at Fuji-Q Highland, this time there was no need for the signs telling me which rides were dog-friendly – everything here was gentle and colourful, and suitable for a scaredy cat like me! I’m not sure how much Dr HH enjoyed going on all the baby rides, but I was in my element! So if you do intend to stay in Osaka, make sure you get out of Osaka to visit this place!

The other great thing about Osaka was the food. We really loved Cafe Aina, which we visited when we returned from Ikoma. It’s a vegetarian place with plenty of vegan options – although there were plenty, Dr HH and I both ordered the same thing. Dumplings!

We were not expecting the portion to be quite so generous. There were a lot of these tasty little dumplings – the filling was great, and they were nicely steamed. There were some more surprises in the side dishes too. The little dish of noodles was really good, and in amongst the salad was one piece of tempura veg and a couple of chunks of karaage (my beloved fried chicken). Delicious! It was all very reasonably priced too, given the massive size. This was also a really friendly place to visit, and we’d recommend it to anyone visiting Osaka.

Is there ever such a thing as too many dumplings? Would you like to ride the dog/cake train?

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VeganMoFo 2019: Yunri and Cafe Atl

Posted on August 18, 2019 by Jenny

It’s no secret that I’m a big fan of Happy Cow, and we relied heavily on the app for nearby vegan options while we were in Japan. Opening hours were quite strange and unpredictable, cities were huge, and we didn’t always know where we’d be when hunger struck, so the Happy Cow app was a lifesaver. And there were times when the eateries we visited had no vegan options labelled, so we were relying on the reviews of other users to specify which dishes were safe for us.

Such was the situation at Yunri (as it was called on Happy Cow; the sign on the building actually said Unryu), a small Chinese place with no English menu. Other Happy Cow users had identified #6 and #12 as vegan, so we pointed at them on the picture menu and hoped for the best. (It’s absolutely not a tourist or trendy spot, so be prepared for a bit of hustle and bustle if you go in).

Above is the #6: big, delicious, flat noodles topped with greens in a solid but simple savoury broth – it didn’t have the depth of flavour of the excellent ramen dishes we’d tried, but it was good. In this case, the noodles were the real star of the show, they were amazing! Also amazing? The portion size! No complaints from me!

Dr HH went for the #12, which had the same noodles in a very spicy sauce. He enjoyed how spicy it was, but lamented the fact that there wasn’t much else going on. Still, we were largely satisfied customers.

Despite the gigantic portions, we still had room in our dessert bellies. Luckily, Cafe Atl was just a few minutes away. It was a pleasant, laid back little place that had a few lunch sets as well, but we only had eyes for the cake. They had five different raw vegan cake options. Dr HH tried white chocolate and raisin, which I thought quite a bold choice – vegan white chocolate isn’t always great (Vego notwithstanding, obviously). He declared this pleasantly sweet and creamy, but not very strongly flavoured.

I went for the good old cacao cake which was really good and chocolatey. The dollop of cream was really good too!

While they were both good and we liked the calm, clean surroundings, it’s worth noting that these two tiny pieces of cake with one cup of coffee cost the same amount as our massive lunch. You pay for them to put the word “vegan” on the menu, I suppose!

Do you also get overcharged for vegan cake in your neck of the woods?

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VeganMoFo 2019: Minto and The Giving Tree Cafe, Osaka

Posted on August 17, 2019 by Jenny

Weird. That’s the first word I wrote in my notebook about Minto in Osaka. It was just weird. We were looking for an eatery close to the train station, and Happy Cow was giving us this as a good option, so off we went for a very peculiar experience.

First of all, it was a slightly decrepit looking place. Mismatched furniture and shabbiness can have a certain chicness sometimes, but here it just looked quite run down. It didn’t really help that it was quite a big space, spread across at least three different rooms, and there was nobody there but us. There was someone working at the bar, so we made our way into their room to try to see the menu. Alas, it was the grumpiest person we encountered in Japan the whole time we were there. I’d found Japanese people disconcertingly polite and attentive, but this guy was sullen and monosyllabic and so we didn’t feel confident asking him for further info to help us fathom the menu.

There’s only one menu available, and it’s there at the bar. Happy Cow lists them as a veggie establishment, but the first few pages of the menu were full of meaty curries, so we were quite confused. There was only one dish that was actually labelled vegan, so we got that and just hoped for the best. We were given a little pager that went off when the food was ready, and we had to go and collect it from the bar. Again, pretty weird.

On the plus side, that one vegan option was very good indeed! I was fully expecting to hate it, based on the weird service and atmosphere, but it was lovely. We got tofu peanut butter masala which had incredible depth of flavour and was spicy without being fiery. I’m not sure that I’ve ever seen a dish like this on a menu anywhere else, and I’m really keen to recreate it now. We had a few Indian dishes during our travels, and this was the best. The menu had promised paratha, but we got boring old rice instead; further proof that it was not our day.

I was a bit unsettled after a not particularly relaxing experience there, and just wanted to sit somewhere nice – so we took a five minute walk round to The Giving Tree Cafe, which turned out to be a teeny tiny place with lots of daylight and friendly service. Phew! They just had one vegan dessert, which was a chocolate pudding (a nice smooth texture, but quite bland) topped with soy yoghurt (this really brought the flavour!). And the coffee came with two crunchy little cinnamon cookies, which the staff told us were vegan. This whole experience was just the palate cleanser we needed.

The real question is, would it be worth going back to Minto for that curry and risking the weirdness a second time?!

What’s the weirdest, most confusing eatery you’ve ever been to? 

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VeganMoFo 2019: Paprika Shokudo Vegan, Osaka

Posted on August 16, 2019 by Jenny

We loved our stay in Kyoto so much. It was a lovely place to visit, and I’m already dreaming of a return trip – we were so tired that we didn’t have time to see all the temples we’d wanted to, so we could comfortably go back and hit all different places. Osaka was kind of the opposite…it turned out that there wasn’t actually that much that we wanted to do there, and we’d planned too many days there. On the plus side, though, the vegan food situation was great!

Paprika was a fun place – all vegan, with a Japanese/western menu, and extremely busy! The only remaining seats when we arrived were out on the veranda, which turned out to be a pleasant place to sit and listen to the rain while eating.

Dr HH took a leaf out of my book and ordered the karaage donburi. Karaage is the juicy, tender deep fried chicken that I was already hooked on. Donburi apparently means that it comes with rice and salad (not pictured, you know what rice looks like). He was very pleased with it.

I was also very pleased with my dishes: deep fried oysters and French fries. Let’s first of all acknowledge that these are in no way French fries. That was a good thing though – in general we found the chips in Japan quite pale, and the wedges much better. These were no exception, and they were really beautifully seasoned with lots of herbs.

The deep fried oysters were in fact mushrooms in crispy batter, and they were insanely good. I’ve never had oysters so I cannot comment on how oyster-like they were, but as deep-fried mushrooms go, they were top notch! A good taste of the sea was created with the dill as well (though a little dill goes a long way, as far as I’m concerned).

With food this good, how could we resist dessert?! Dr HH ordered the baked cheesecake, and found it delightfully creamy but with an almost non-existent base. How devastating! Still, he said it was worth ordering because vegan baked cheesecake is quite the rarity in our experience.

I played it safe (again! Will I never learn?!) with the brownie. It was supremely chocolatey, but really not a brownie. You can see in the picture that it looks dry rather than gooey. At least it tasted great, and overall we had a real feast and a lovely experience.

As a downside, I must point out that they proudly announce on their menu that their food contains “no chemicals”…which is quite the claim. As a scientist, Dr HH is constantly infuriated by nonsense like this. I thought he was going to have a heart attack once when we saw lemon listed as alkaline in some hippy, wellness establishment. He held it together a bit better this time, thankfully.

Does bad science put you off eateries, or can you let it go? 

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