Vegan MoFo 2016: Vegan in Madrid

Capricho Park (1)

UPDATE: this restaurant closed in 2017

My two favourite things in Madrid were the lunch menus and the green spaces, so of course my MoFo post has to focus on the best of those.  Botanique (UPDATE: closed April 2017) was the cheapest and most ambitious place where we had the lunch set.  It’s an unassuming looking place on the first floor of the San Anton Mercado, but it’s no scruffy street food place – it’s clean and classy, with a menu to match.

It was €9.50 for two courses plus wine/beer and bread, and an extra €2.50 for dessert if you want it.  There are no options though, you just have to take what is offered for each course, so it can be a gamble and may be a dangerous game for picky eaters.  However, it can be an opportunity to turn around some of your prejudices:  you might get a dish with an ingredient you usually avoid, and find that it is not so awful after all.

Madrid Botanique (1)

Take, for example, this watermelon tartare.  I hate watermelon and my face fell when we were told what the starter was.  But the dish as a whole was delightful!  For one thing, the tartare was a little mound of watermelon, avocado, capers and red onion, meaning there were enough good things to combat the fruit.  And the almond cream was divine!  It was surprisingly thick and savoury, and sprinkled with pistachios.  This was an unusual starter, and one I never would have chosen, but it was absolutely beautiful.

Madrid Botanique (4)

The main was also good, if not quite as striking.  It was smoked black rice, made from smoked tea and served with red cabbage ad teeny bits of courgette and mushroom.  It tasted really good, but was a little small and could have used a splash of contrasting colour for presentation purposes.

Madrid Botanique (7)

As the first two courses had been so good, we had no choice but to try the dessert as well.  The panna cotta was served with a fruity red sauce, pistachio crumbs and a sweet syrup.  It had a good wobble, looked extremely fancy and tasted divine!

This was perhaps the only place we visited in Madrid that wasn’t fully booked, perhaps because it’s not at street level and is slightly off the beaten track.  It’s only a small detour though, and is still tourist friendly (by which I mean that the staff speak English), so do add it to your itinerary if you’re in Madrid.

Capricho Park (5)

And the park to add to your itinerary is also a little further from the action.  El Capricho is only open at the weekend, you can’t take any food in, and visitors are limited, so you might want to get there early, before it gets full.  It’s definitely worth it:  it’s a really spacious place, very quiet and undisturbed by nearby traffic, and it’s just beautiful.

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How peaceful!

(UPDATE: Botanique closed April 2017)

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Vegan MoFo 2016: Vegan in Ostrava

Ostrava (9)

UPDATE: this restaurant closed in 2017

Ostrava is one of the biggest cities in the Czech Republic, so we’d been hoping for an opportunity to visit it.  That came when we were making our way towards Poland in the Easter holidays and wanted somewhere to break the journey.  We didn’t even have a full twenty-four hours, but we got some good sightseeing in.  Alas, because it was Easter weekend, there weren’t an abundance of dining options for us.  Ojero Vegan Bistro (UPDATE: closed 2017) was the only 100% vegan place open, and we were keen to give it a try.

Ostrava Ojero (1)

Because most other meat-free places were closed for the weekend, they were running a little low on supplies on Saturday evening.  We ordered two burgers, but the waitress returned to apologise and say they’d just given the last bread buns to some other customers.  Boo, selfish other customers, beating us there!  (The burgers went past on their way to the table, and they looked big and hearty.)  A few other customers who’d arrived at the same time as us left when they heard this news, but we stuck it out.  Only their traditional Czech dishes were still available, and we always enjoy those.

Dr HH had the svickova, which we’ve had a few varieties of in our time here.  He said the sauce:solids ratio was not perfect, and that the seitan needed more seasoning, but generally he really liked it.

Ostrava Ojero (2)

The waitress recommended this dish to me, and I decided to give it a go as I’ve never seen a version of it in Prague.  I didn’t catch its Czech name, so I will describe it as smashed potato and oaty beetroot dumpling.  It’s a very dry plate, which is my idea of heaven!  It was all well-seasoned and extremely hearty, and I hope I’ll see it on a Prague menu soon.  If I find myself back in Ostrava one day, I’ll see if I can get my hands on a burger here instead.

Ostrava (17)

As for what to do in Ostrava, the town centre has some beautiful old buildings and squares.  But as you can see, we went in a different direction.  Dr HH’s Czech teacher had recommended a tour of the disused steelworks, but we had dismissed it as not worth paying for.  However, we saw it when we got off the tram and decided to do our usual “see how far we can get without paying for a ticket” act, and found that we could actually saunter round for free.

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My hometown also has some steelworks, now sadly disused as well.  I think every male relative before my generation worked there at some point, and indeed it kept a lot of local people employed, so its loss has certainly been felt.  Because of that homely connection, I really enjoyed seeing the steelworks here, and thought it a little sad to see them in ruin.  I wonder if Ostrava is facing the same problems as Redcar.

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Ostrava (113)

As a little bonus, the subway leading to the steelworks was covered in street art.  We enjoyed the blue-haired lady and the conveyor belt of creatures.  Both the art and the steel were sides of Ostrava that we hadn’t expected to see really, so they were pleasant surprises.

(UPDATE: Ojero Vegan Bistro closed 2017)

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Vegan MoFo 2016: Vegan in Valencia

Valencia Almalibra Acai Bar (4)

We loved our time in Valencia in the summer!  I was worried it would be overshadowed by the bigger cities on our itinerary (Madrid and Barcelona), but it certainly held its own.  One of the places recommended to me in Valencia was Almalibra Acai Bar.  I was unsure, because they don’t actually label the vegan options (and like any good, socially-awkward Brit, I hate having to inconvenience a server by asking a question), and because acai bowls sound far too fancy for me.  When I described them to Dr HH, he scoffed.  But we needed an emergency spot for lunch, and this was the nearest place that was open, so in we went.  We both ordered acai bowls, and we were both instantly won over.

The bowls topped with granola are not vegan, but this one with chocolate chips, banana and a kind of peanut crumble was.  There are 4 different sizes on offer, and this was the traditional:  it’s definitely big enough for a meal.  The nice cream was cool and refreshing, and the toppings were generous and delicious.  We loved it so much, we went three days in a row.

It’s just a small place though – only four or five little tables indoors, and a few more outside.  There are a couple of English menus, and indeed it seems that most of their customers are English speakers:  it seemed very popular with American students.  You can also get takeaway, and it’s right in the heart of the old town, so it’s definitely worth a trip.

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And when you have finished being a sophisticated adult eating healthily, why not go to a giant playground?  This is in the old riverbed of Valencia that has been turned into a gigantic park, and is a giant Gulliver climbing and sliding frame.  It’s not open all the time, so definitely check the opening times before you head over there.  Even at the weekend, it wasn’t crawling with kids as much as we’d expected, and there are so many parents on there with kids that you needn’t feel guilty if you are an adult trying to play too.

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There are various points where you can scramble up, and then slide down without a care in the world.

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Wheeeee!

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Vegan MoFo 2016: Vegan in Warsaw

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UPDATE: this restaurant has closed

I have already raved about how vegan-friendly Warsaw is (here and here), and I have one last example of that to share.  Vege Bistro was a fantastic little restaurant that we visited.  It was a small, cosy place with a really ambitious and impressive menu.  If ever I stumble upon those people who learn that I’m vegan and ask in horror, “But what do you eat?”, I want to show them these photos and say:  “Everything.”

Warsaw Vege Bistro (3)The food has a definite local flavour.  My mum had never tried pierogi before, and we suspected this would be her only opportunity in Warsaw, so we urged her to try.  There were a few different fillings available, and we asked for the waitress’ advice.  She recommended these red lentil and tomato ones, and they were delicious!  The Mediterranean flavour was really nice, and they were generously filled.  The salad in the middle featured cranberries and pumpkin seeds, and was also a winner.

Warsaw Vege Bistro (2)

Dr HH tried these millet-leek chops, which were like little burgers with a nice crispy coating.  They had a good chunky texture from the millet, and lovely bits of leek.  Unfortunately, he found the sides a bit meh – the saffron cream was a touch bland, and the pesto dressing on the carrot tagliatelle didn’t really come through.

Warsaw Vege Bistro (4)

I love a bit of potato, so I ordered the hashbrowns with sunflower seed cream and seaweed caviar.  Oh, it was good!  The hashbrowns were more like potato pancakes, good and crispy on the outside.  The cream was smooth like a cashew cream.  And the caviar was unusual, colourful and delicious!  We were all really satisfied with our dishes.

Warsaw Vege Bistro (10)

There was a cake case, and we knew from the start that we would indulge.  Dr HH had the tofurnik cake on the left – tofurnik is quite a big deal in Poland, and I think it just means a tofu cheesecake.  This had quite a soft base, a creamy coconutty tofu layer and a sticky date topping with peanuts.  He raved about it!  My mum tried the lemon tart at the top of the picture.  She loved the lemon layer and fruity topping, but found the millet base a bit too dry.  And I had the only sponge cake on offer, a carrot cake with coconut cream.  It was a good sponge and had nice orange and spice flavours.  It was lovely!

Warsaw Day 2 (54)

Dr HH and I don’t usually go to many museums when we travel, because we prefer spending our money on food.  We didn’t mind coughing up for the Neon Museum, though.  (And in fairness, it only cost about £1 to enter.)

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It’s in the Praga district, on the ‘wrong side’ of the river.  It’s really not in a dangerous place though, whatever you might read.  If you walk from the tram stop, you should go past this impressive piece of street art, which is a definite bonus.

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The museum itself is pretty small, but it has some information about the history of neon in Warsaw and then a collection of old signs.  Not all of them are lit up all the time, but we saw some great ones.  I loved the eyes on this cat, from an old shoe shop.

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There were lots of restaurant signs too.

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This was one of my favourites, because it’s such a fun font!  I think this one was from a hotel, and it is one of the most famous in the collection.

You don’t need a lot of time for this museum, but it’s a really nice, quiet place and we really enjoyed our visit.  Quiet besides the hum of the signs, anyway!

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Vegan MoFo 2016: Vegan in Poznan

Poznan Misa Lisa (2)

UPDATE: this restaurant closed in 2017

If you saw a place listed on Happy Cow under the name Misa Lisa Mega Vegan, you’d put it at the top of your wishlist, wouldn’t you?  There was just no way we could resist, and after a three hour train journey from Gdansk we were ready for lunch at this cute little cafe.  It had those Polish staples:  repurposed crates, chalkboard menus and this exciting white cola drink:

Poznan Misa Lisa (1)

(It tastes just like normal cola.)

The waitress was mildly panicked by our arrival and explained that there’s no menu, just two daily choices on the chalkboard (this was a regular occurence in Poznan, also mentioned here in my post about the other eateries we visited during our stay).  She apologised for her inability to speak English, then described the two dishes to us perfectly.  We each chose a different one, which is just perfect for blogging purposes!

Poznan Misa Lisa (3)

Dr HH had the waffles, which I would have chosen were it not for the fact that they contained pear.  *shudder*  The waffles were sandwiched with mayo, cheese, grape and pear, and my fellow reported that they were very good indeed.  The salad was also tasty, and was topped with a nutty vegan parmesan.

Poznan Misa Lisa (4)

I was equally delighted with my dish (and bonus marks for pretty crockery).  I had a huge poppy seed bun, topped with a tasty, smoky spread.  It was served with rice under a creamy sauce, some Brussel sprouts, kale, cranberries, hazelnuts, cherry tomatoes and melon.  That sounds like a lot, but everything worked together really well and it was very balanced and delicious.

Poznan Misa Lisa (6)

For dessert, we each ordered a slice of cake, but it was so gigantic that one to share probably would have sufficed.  The sponge was absolutely perfect, and the topping was jammy and possibly tahini-based at the back.  Whatever it was, it was amazing.

Poznan (34)

With our bellies full, we set about exploring Poznan.  It was a lovely day as we strolled around the old town, but as soon as we uttered the words:  “Let’s go to Park Cytadela!” the skies darkened and it began to drizzle.  We used to live in Manchester, so a bit of rain doesn’t deter us from outdoor activities.  But when we arrived at the entrance steps here, the heavens truly opened.

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Nevertheless, we wandered around, taking in this tower, some old tanks, a war memorial and the general greenery.  After a little while we decided we were too sodden and would head home; at the very moment that we gave up, the rain stopped and the sun came out.

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Look at that blue sky!  I’m not saying it’s a magic park, but the evidence is staring you in the face.  Speaking of faces, or rather a lack thereof, en route to the exit we saw these headless bodies (I hear there are some in Chicago as well).  They were interesting to meander through, and presumably we can thank the weather for the fact that we had them to ourselves.

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If you are fortunate enough to have better weather on your visit, this park would be the perfect place for a lazy afternoon and a little picnic – perhaps with a slab of cake from Misa Lisa!

UPDATE: closed in March 2017

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Vegan MoFo 2016: Vegan in Glossop

Glossop (1)

One of the great things about Manchester is that it’s just a stone’s throw from some really beautiful countryside.  Glossop, for example, is merely a thirty minute train ride away, and you’re surrounded by rolling hills and old stone buildings as soon as you get there.  And just because it’s a small town doesn’t mean there’s no vegan food to be found.  It even has a vegan pub!  (According to Happy Cow not all of the beers in The Globe are vegan, but the food is all safe.)

Glossop (2)

I went for lunch there in the summer with Dr HH and my mum.  My mum was astonished at how cheap it was and kept asking if we had been undercharged.  It really is cheap and cheerful!  She enjoyed her meal as well as the price.  The chilli deluxe (a deluxe dish has tofu in it) was well-spiced without being especially fiery, and it was really filling.  I think the picture gives you an idea of how gigantic the portion was.

Glossop (3)

Dr HH ordered the steak with mushrooms and red wine sauce.  We were expecting something more like a seitan steak, so the stew was a bit of a letdown.  It also needed a bit more seasoning.  He said the chips were a bit soggy too, which was a shame.  He described it as unexciting food, but filling and cheap.

Glossop (4)

I’d say something similar about my sausage sarnie.  It was exactly what I expected and was in the mood for:  an unremarkable sausage sandwich.  The onions on top were good, but the star of the dish was the side: curly fries!  It’s been a long time.  Again, the portion size was huge, and they turned out to be better than the portion of onion rings we got to share.  For good, filling pub grub and friendly service, this is such a great place.  They also serve desserts and ice cream, but we were too full for that.

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Glossop (9)

Glossop (10)

So we went to walk it off in nearby Manor Park.  It’s a really big park with some formal gardens, playgrounds, a miniature train and a body of water.  It would be a nice place for a picnic or for lazing away an afternoon, but seems equally good for walking around too if you don’t feel ready to venture out into the wilderness surrounding this pretty little town.

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Vegan MoFo 2016: Vegan in Girona

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Girona is a comfortable day trip from Barcelona, so we were keen to visit it during our holiday this summer.  We spent about 10 hours there, which is probably longer than you need, but arriving early is definitely a good thing.  As soon as our train pulled in, we made a beeline for the cathedral.

Girona (9)

It’s a pretty spectacular cathedral anyway, and well worth seeing in its own right, but Game of Thrones fans will enjoy the opportunity to shout “Shame!  Shame!” on these steps, because this is where the Great Sept of Baelor scenes were filmed.  As you can see, at 9:30am it’s very easy to get good photos here.  Later in the day the steps were swarming with tourists.  It’s even free to enter the cathedral too, which is becoming quite the rarity in Europe.

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Girona (88)

The rest of the city is nice to explore too, and the city walls are definitely worth a walk.  We also spent a lot of time eating, which is normal for us.  What’s less normal is that we ate every meal at the same place.  Yes, it was that good!

Girona B12 (1)

We were quite peckish on arrival, so after seeing the cathedral we worked our way to B12, an all vegan restaurant nearby in the old town, for its 10am opening.  We ordered croissants and hot chocolate, both of which were lovely!  Initially we were a little disappointed not to have anything to spread on the croissant, but actually it was fine plain – there was quite a lot of flavour in it, and it was a bit savoury too.  The texture was perfect as well, really flaky.  We actually got two more to take away for breakfast the next day.

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For lunch we made our way to Veggana, another all vegan option.  It was meant to open at 1pm, and the shutters were part-way open, suggesting things were happening.  However, after 15 minutes there were no further signs of life.  During that time I sent a message on Facebook to see if they were opening.  Several hours later I got a reply saying the owner had been interviewing someone, but it was still open.  This is clearly not a restaurant that was open.

Girona B12 (3)

So, we went back to B12 for their lunch set menu.  (There is another all vegan restaurant in Girona, but we didn’t fancy raw food.)  It was €12.50 for three courses plus water or wine, and there were about five choices for each course.  You can pay an extra €2 for one of their craft beers, if you like – I’m not a beer drinker, but I think there may have been as many as fifty to choose from, all vegan.

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We both ordered the same starter:  stuffed baked mushrooms with polenta and spinach.  They were really flavoursome, with plenty of nooch and balsamic vinegar.  A fine start!

Girona B12 (6)

The mains were more of a mixed bag.  Dr HH chose the seitan and olive burger, which he said was very salty and good.  However, it came on this sad plate.  Your eyes do not deceive you:  there is no bun.  It looks quite pathetic.  Although it was tasty, it wasn’t really a complete dish.

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I chose the dish of the day, which was a much better choice.  It was a thick, creamy cheese and potato sauce with cabbage and sausage.  Everything tasted delicious, though I wish there had been more than three pieces of sausage.

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I didn’t choose the winning pudding though.  The chocolate brownie was good, but more cakey than anything – it lacked that gooey, fudgy texture that a brownie should have.  It was fine, but a little disappointing.

Girona B12 (8)

The yoghurt, lemon and pine nut cake was better – a really good bake, with nice flavour and a pleasant yoghurt drizzle.

We were pleased to see how busy this place was at lunch.  That was still the case when we returned for tapas later in the day.  I love seeing a thriving vegan business!  There was quite an extensive tapas menu, and we tried several different dishes.

Girona B12 (10)

The mushroom croquettes had a good dark colour and were topped with hummus and an olive.  We had quite a few croquette dishes during our stay in Spain, and these were comfortably the best: really crispy outside, with an intense, earthy flavour from the mushrooms.

The sweetcorn fritters were also good and crispy, and the dill yoghurt really made them sing.

And the egg-less potato and onion omelette was glorious.  The texture was perfect, and the alioli complemented it beautifully.

Girona B12 (11)

These polenta triangles were topped with black olive pate, which was very salty and delicious, but only had one piece of sundried tomato for all three slices.  Poor mathematics!

We had high hopes for the mini pita bread pizza, and while it tasted delicious it was lacking some structural integrity – it fell apart very easily.

You know you’ve found a good vegan eatery when they feed you all three meals in a day!  Whatever time you visit Girona, stopping by this place will be worth your while.

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Vegan MoFo 2016: Vegan in Berlin

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Berlin is one of the greatest cities in the world: it’s a fascinating city, and I love the atmosphere there.  And it certainly helps that it is indeed vegan heaven.  In February, Dr HH and I popped along for a weekend and treated ourselves to brunch at Kopps.  It was my first ever all-you-can-eat brunch buffet, but not my last (in fact, the next one I had was also in Berlin!).  It was all vegan, and was extremely plentiful.

Kopps Brunch (1)

By the door is a cereal table with muesli, cornflakes, and these delicious coconutty clusters.  There were several varieties of yoghurt and a whole host of dried fruit.  The perfect breakfast starter!

Kopps Brunch (2)

We moved on to a plate of cold savouries.  There was a huge basket of bread, though Dr HH somehow managed to nab the last pretzel (or possibly the only pretzel – everything else was replenished regularly, but I never caught sight of another one of these).  There were two kinds of cheese and two of salami, both of which were great, and some delicious creamy orange spread for the bread buns.  Then a wide range of cold salad dishes and antipasti, the highlight being the nachos (though the crisps were a bit soggy from the dip, unfortunately).

Kopps Brunch (3)

Next we had some hot food:  an exquisite medley of mushrooms that was beautifully seasoned; tofu scramble; crispy potato cakes; a sweet root vegetable gratin; and some short, fat noodles.  Everything was good, and, most importantly, still hot.

Kopps Brunch (4)

And to finish, of course, we shared a dessert plate.  There were three kinds of cake, but they were all a little dry.  The top of the coconut cake was amazingly crunchy though, and the brownie was good with some of the banana cream from the little pot.  There were a couple of hot dishes too, though this little pancake was the only one left.  It was nice though!  There were some other little pancake-style crumbs with fruit in, but I have no idea what they were, except that they were delicious.  Still, surprisingly for me, I found that the savouries were better than the sweets this time around.

If you go for brunch, I’d recommend booking:  it was absolutely packed.  It wasn’t stressful though, as stocks were regularly replenished (except for the aforementioned pretzels) and table service for drinks and plate-clearing was excellent.  Drinks need to be ordered from the staff, and we asked for some tap water to accompany our hot beverages, only to be told that they didn’t serve tap water.  This is one of my biggest hates, and also it’s just baffling.  Unless there is a problem with the water supply in Berlin, I just don’t think there’s an excuse for this.

We were given glasses containing about 0.25l of water each, and charged €3.80 for the privilege.  Worse, we were given the water in glasses rather than bottles, so for all we know it actually was tap water.  This gave me such a negative impression of the place.  What if someone is sick and needs some water?  We started stealthily drinking from our supply of water for the bus trip home, because unsurprisingly we got through those glasses pretty quickly.

If Kopps was previously losing money from serving unlimited tap water, I wonder why they didn’t add an extra euro to the price of the buffet – €13.50 for all you can eat seems pretty good to me, so I wouldn’t have resented an extra euro for the amount of food I had.  €3.80 for a few mouthfuls of water though?  No, thank you.  I contacted Kopps afterwards to ask about the policy, but nobody ever replied.  So the food gets a thumbs up, but the restaurant itself gets a thumbs down.

Berlin Game Science Centre (6)

From a brunch that sounded like my kind of thing but left me a little angry, to an attraction that sounded awful but was really fantastic:  the Game Science Centre.  Even if, like me, you are not a fan of computer games or science, chances are you will love this.  It’s a few big rooms with various games and activities to try.  Instructions are in English and German, and it wasn’t that busy when we visited at Sunday lunchtime – two families and another couple (it’s perfectly acceptable to visit without kids).  I excelled at this game, where you had to rhythmically hit the button to match the square on the screen…

Berlin Game Science Centre (9)

…but I was utterly baffled by this one, which involved pumping to lift a balloon into the sky, turning wheels to control the direction and using a magnet to collect things I needed.  Whatever I did, nothing seemed to happen.

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There were lots of other games, including one that tracked eye movement to fire lasers, and one in which you killed aliens by firing a ping pong ball at them.

Berlin Game Science Centre (55)

We finished off with occulus rift:  I was advised to remove my glasses for comfort, so it was a little blurry but still very exciting.

It’s easy to focus on the history and art when you’re in Berlin, but I hope you’ll be inspired to visit this place and enjoy a little glimpse of the future too!

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Vegan MoFo 2016: Vegan in Brighton

Brighton Pier 2

Japanese food is fast becoming my favourite cuisine, and I seize any opportunity to try vegan sushi.  It’s always so fresh, colourful and tasty.  Moshimo in Brighton is one of my favourite Japanese places, and I visited it for the second time in March 2015 – yes, I’ve had this post up my sleeve for a while!

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We started with the vegan sushi set, faroes (all vegan options are clearly marked on the menu).  It’s not really ideal to share, because I wanted one of everything and that just wasn’t possible.  But still, I liked the things I had (except for the vegan cheese one, which was pretty disgusting – though I say this as someone who generally dislikes vegan cheese), and we ordered plenty of other treats to keep us full.

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I was giddy about the gyoza, but was quite disappointed to find they were fried (that is not my usual reaction to fried food, I hasten to add – I just love it when gyozas are fried on the bottom only, that is the dream texture).  They were tasty, but not quite what I’d wanted.

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Agedashi tofu, on the other hand, seems pretty foolproof.  Crispy, fried tofu with a tasty sauce:  what’s not to love?  These were hotter than the sun, so never try to eat them in one mouthful, as Dr HH learned the hard way.

Moshimo Croquettes

There were also some pumpkin croquettes, which were deliciously crispy outside, but a bit too soft inside for me.

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The menu states that the chocolate mousse is sometimes vegan, so, on learning that it was vegan that day, what choice did I have but to try some?  Good lord, it was delicious!  I think it may have been my first vegan mousse, but not my last.  The texture was just like pre-vegan mousse, and it was so rich and chocolatey, a really nice way to end the feast.  Dr HH ordered a vegan dessert as well, and absolutely loved these three mochi.  Unsurprisingly, he said the coconut was the best.

Ms Cupcake

Brighton is an amazing place for vegan food, and that is my main reason for visiting.  The sea front is lovely, the pavilion is pretty, but the main attraction for me will always be VegFest.  We went in 2014 and 2015 and loved it both times.  It’s usually held in March, and it is full of food, glorious food.  This was the first place I got to try baked goods from the divine Ms Cupcake.

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We also always share some plates of nibbles, which is the best way to try lots of different things.  I can’t remember what all of these things were, but I remember being very happy indeed!  It’s always a very busy place, but it’s great being surrounded by like-minded people and seeing all the mouth-watering food we can devour, along with other things like clothing and toiletries.  There are also talks, workshops and comedians, which I’ve heard good things about, though surely they take up valuable time that could be spent eating?

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Vegan MoFo 2016: Vegan in Sopot

Sopot (34)

UPDATE: this restaurant closed in 2017

During my Easter tour of Poland I spent a few days in Gdansk.  While I was researching what to do there, a neighbouring town called Sopot came to my attention.  And Sopot, as you can see, has a pier.  I grew up in a little seaside town in the north of England which used to have a pier, until it was cruelly destroyed before I was even born.  One of our neighbouring towns still has a pier and it’s a place I love, so I was really looking forward to breathing some sea air and strolling along a pier once more.

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This looks considerably longer than the pier in Saltburn, near where I grew up.  The sea wasn’t any warmer though – the North Sea is always cold, even on a beautiful day like this when we visited Sopot.

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The end of the pier is plagued with those infernal love locks (one of my biggest hates of all time), but it’s still a pretty nice place to loiter and look out to sea.  The pier in Sopot is lined with benches, and we had an enjoyable few hours soaking up a few early-April rays and people-watching, before our bellies started grumbling.

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I found two good vegan options, and went for Dziupla  (UPDATE: closed May 2017), which is in a lovely little courtyard really close to the pier.  It’s a vegetarian place with English translations on the menu and vegan options marked.  The options included two kinds of soup, nachos, two kinds of cutlets, a risotto and a pasta dish.

Sopot Dziupla (1)

Homemade lemonades are our default drinks in this part of the world, and these ones were good and fruity, and made us feel a little more tropical.

Sopot Dziupla (2)

On the food front, I went for the broad bean cutlets.  Cutlets pop up a lot on vegan menus in the north of Poland, and when they’re done well, they’re very good.  These were good and crispy outside, with a lovely smooth, creamy texture inside.  They were served as part of a colourful combination:  a wedge of polenta with broccoli, some peas, and a well-dressed salad.  It was a really appealing plate, both visually and in terms of taste.

Sopot Dziupla (5)

There were three vegan dessert options:  a chia pudding, strawberry millet cake and a tofurnik cake.  I went for the latter, which was a chocolate cheesecake.  Oh, it was good!  It was rich and creamy, and had a few tart berries in it.  The base was almost flapjacky, and it was topped with crunchy almonds.  I loved it!

Sopot is a great place to visit if you’re in that neck of the woods.  We were so lucky that we went on the best day of the holiday, weather-wise:  there’s probably not quite so much to fill your time if you can’t bask in the sunshine.

(UPDATE: Dziupla closed May 2017)

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